Solplay Hotel de Apartamentos ★★★★

Here I am back in the Portuguese capital, where I first strolled through the pastel-tinted streets with just my husband and promised myself I'd return. This time we have our children in tow and chose the freedom and space of a hotel on the fringes of the city rather than cram ourselves into a poky downtown flat. The Solplay Hotel de Apartamentos was just what we were looking for, just 15 minutes by car from the centre, situated in the west of the city. As it happened, we were able to arrange a transfer from the airport through the helpful and efficient staff at the hotel, so there was no need to even hire a car. Perched on top of a hill that lords over the pretty estuary, our homely apartment is blessed with fantastic views over the Tagus and the Atlantic Ocean beyond.

From the moment we arrive, we know we've chosen well. The apartment is very well-equipped, beautifully furnished in a clean and modern style and - most importantly of all - it has enough space and separate rooms that we won't be living in each other’s pockets and tearing our own hair out! Dividing up the rooms is surprisingly easy, but then again each is so lovely that it's hard to be disappointed. With rucksacks thrown clumsily across the beds, the kids disappear to explore the hotel. They head straight for the outdoor pool (there's also one indoors), and the sight of them piling out of the door in a flurry of towels and flip-flops is one that we quickly get used to throughout our stay. My husband and I take our time exploring the gym with its comprehensive range of machines before walking past them all and straight into the hammam!

As usual, it's the call of rumbling stomachs that draws our scattered clan back to the apartment. We could have cooked, I suppose - and the gleaming kitchen counters almost win me over - but for our first night we decide that convenience is king and scrub ourselves up for an evening at Pratu's Restaurant. Perfectly located within the hotel complex itself, the restaurant is bathed in buckets of natural light, a delightful touch that becomes even more apparent when we find ourselves back there for an abundant breakfast the following morning.

While the kids would quite happily have mooched around the sun-splashed pool and gardens all day every day for the whole week, we still found time to show them a little bit of Lisbon, a city that's so easy to love. Filling our heads with excellent insider tips from the knowledgeable front desk staff, we hop in the transfer car and dive headfirst into the city, winging our way up its seven hills in the quirky, retro trams. We spend many a pleasant morning dipping into the city's many cafes and striking cheesy poses on its bridges.

Tired but happy, we find our way back to our private sanctuary to flop in front of the TV or gather around the table for a casual supper of grilled fish or local cheese with freshly baked bread, finished off with a plate of custard tarts. Sunshine, luxury, beauty, space and entertainment... at the Solplay Hotel de Apartamentos, the only thing that's missing is you.