Hotel d'Europe ★★★★★

Arriving at the wisteria-clad courtyard set an impressive tone for my stay at the hotel d’Europe. Majestic in full bloom, the verdant climber shades decorative iron tables where well-heeled guests and locals sip glasses of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Dutiful members of staff took my bags from me upon arrival, and as I swanned into the lobby I was half-certain I passed a former First Lady of France.

The air of nobility still saturates this 16th-century aristocratic home: the grand lobby and public rooms feature hardwood antiques and ancient portraits, but the light-hearted ambience that is characteristic of Provence is tangible too. The Hotel d’Europe is both dignified and glamorous, and boasts a friendly, convivial atmosphere.

Up the thick-carpeted staircase, the rooms and suites are very mixed. Some would not look out of place in a period drama, with decorative paneled doors, ornate brass light fittings, and Louis XVI chairs. My room, however, is more contemporary. As a courteous bellboy places my bags in my lounge area, I spend some time admiring the gilt-framed butterfly prints above my plush, padded headboard. With elegant dove grey walls, a pair of marble-topped bedside tables on either side of the headboard in grey floral brocade, it doesn’t lack any of the grandeur of the traditional rooms, but my room benefits from a light, airy ambience.
The amenities provided are second-to-none: after freshening up in my marble bathroom, I wrap myself up in a fluffy bathrobe and slippers and sink into an armchair. There are bone shoehorns, glass nail files, and delectable complimentary toiletries. Monogrammed cushions adorn the beds and sofas in the bar, which, like the other public areas, has the air of a traditional London gentleman’s club.

I ventured downstairs for a walk, to explore the former papal city. The hotel is ideally located close to the border of the city, close enough to benefit from the animated charm of the old town, but remains quiet and exclusive. Walking up hills and admiring the ancient monuments characterizing the Avignon skyline worked up a considerable appetite, and I returned to the Hotel d’Europe eager to sample some of the Michelin-starred cuisine at the in-house restaurant.

La Vieille Fontaine, too, is characterized by old-school glamour. Under the careful supervision of Chef Bruno d’Angelis, the kitchen offers exquisite Mediterranean-inspired dishes like toasted Melba lobster, partridge and perfect portions of opera cake. Service throughout is courteous and attentive but discreet, and the staff are more than happy to advise you as to the wine list and any one of the carefully crafted cocktails in the bar.

Once I had sampled some drinks and chatted with the cheery barmen and charming fellow punters, I was lucky enough to effortlessly stroll through the hotel upstairs to my room. After indelicately flopping on my vast bed, sending sumptuous pillows flying, I curled up and had one of the best sleeps I have enjoyed for a long time.

Waking up in the bright room, with the delicate sheer drapes rustling in the breeze from the window left open to the fresh air, was almost ethereal. In no rush to start my day, safe in the knowledge that a delicious complimentary breakfast awaited me downstairs, I stretched out languorously on my bed and relaxed in the traditional luxurious comfort of the Hotel d’Europe, as a beam of Provence’s famous light struck my pillow.