Dukes Hotel ★★★★★

We are finally returning to London! I’ve been desperate to return to the city for some time, and as such, we have opted for a quintessentially British destination: Dukes Hotel, just a stone's throw away from Her Majesty The Queen at Buckingham Palace. It is English to the core in the best sense. Set back in the quiet St James’s Place, its majestic façade blends in seamlessly with the Regency style architecture in the area, leafy decorative entrance adorned with a British flag announcing its proud heritage. My Spanish partner looks ever so slightly dubious, but I just laugh and drag him out of the good old-fashioned black taxi cab. We are welcomed with genuine warmth and ushered through to the plush interior. I feel my partner beginning to relax already and it soon becomes apparent that the English badge is worn with pride, entirely inoffensive and simply delightfully nostalgic.

This soft nod toward tradition is found in every careful detail, every cushioned chair, every ornate gold frame and every hushed carpet or gilded lamp. It is rather like stepping into a 19th-century novel, a gentleman's townhouse that has been brought to life with a refreshing, modern touch. Our bedroom is decorated much in the same tone, done with quaint, yet sophisticated charm. A contemporary take on the classical aesthetic, which is seamlessly updated to the present day with clean lines and a bright and breezy air. It is largely white, very luminous, with a handsome antique clothes cupboard and tall windows that make the most of the light. We have asked for a room high up and from here I can make out the unusually clear blue sky against the chimney pots of this distinguished part of town.

I leave my partner to admire the view and soak in a little of the feel of old London whilst I go to inspect the bathroom. It turns out to be a haven of marble, with complimentary Ren products and a bathtub ideal for luxuriating in after a cold day's walk outside. After that we need only slip on the bathrobe and slippers thoughtfully supplied for us and pad through to curl up and perhaps watch a BBC drama on the wide, state-of-the-art flat-screen television. As I exit the bathroom I find my man sat at the impressive writing desk making a To-Do List. I lean over his shoulder, curious to see what his priorities are here in the big city. Top of the list is to explore several of its parks. He is amazed by how verdant it is everywhere, particularly where we are now, and is quite impressed at the great array of natural spaces and parks, which make it the greenest city in Europe. St James’s Park is among my favourites, with its carefully cultivated 23 hectares, its rose garden, little decorative bridges, serene lake and famous islands in the middle. I have told him all about the marvellous variety of birds that live on Duck Island and as it's getting dark early these days, we decide to nip outside for a romantic stroll and to see if we can spot a pelican or a black swan.

It seems incredible to be in the very heart of this vast, cosmopolitan city and to be breathing in lungfuls of fresh, crisp air. I sometimes forget just how beautiful London can be and this is one of those moments when I remember and see her in all her glory. St James’s is indubitably one of London's richest treasures and we are staying right here! The Dukes Hotel offers a real glimpse into a gentrified London, where one has direct access to everything from this fine Royal Park to the biggest theatres, famous galleries and fashionable shops. Yet it, in itself, represents so much of a British culture that is fading now, with its unique 'Duchess Rooms' service for the female traveller, offering special attentions such as serving dinner in her room should she wish to dine alone, and its world-renowned Martinis served at the Dukes Bar. These are, according to some, the best in the world and it is said that they inspired James Bond's legendary line “shaken, not stirred”. It's certainly true that the bar was a favourite haunt of Ian Fleming's and it oozes suave, English charisma with a truly authentic, cosy atmosphere.

As it is just getting to that peckish time between lunch and supper, it occurs to me to take advantage of yet another quintessential English tradition that is available at our hotel. I grab my love by the hand and we make our way back to our ritzy residence. A little while later we are both ensconced in the chic drawing room, looking out at the failing light on the peaceful courtyard garden. Before us there are several tiers of delicate cucumber sandwiches and freshly baked scones laid out carefully on pretty china plates. An exquisite Afternoon Tea with Earl Grey and champagne to toast to a wonderful sojourn in style at this most exclusive address fit for any Tom, Duke or Prince Harry!