Soho Boutique Hotel ★★★★

Formerly a separate independent city, the eastern bank of the Danube, Pest, has a difficult history of destruction and occupation. Nevertheless, Budapest, one of the epicentres of Renaissance thought during the fifteenth century, has experienced a stunning revival since the fall of the Iron Curtain. No longer is it a dreary hub of socialist politics, but an upbeat, dynamic city with a burgeoning restaurant scene and a rich cultural heritage.

The Soho Boutique Hotel nods to the city’s history, though: its contemporary style has charming retro accents. Brightly coloured modern furniture and hardwood floors give the lobby a vibrant, lively ambience, and the black-tiled pillars in the reception area evoke the city’s reputation as one of the finest spa destinations in Eastern Europe.

Check-in was effortless, thanks to a cheery, enthusiastic concierge-member who prided himself on informing us of his linguistic capabilities. It was then just a zip upstairs in the elevator to our room, a well-maintained and stylish suite. Dark and intimate, with stained-wood furniture and elegant shaded light-fittings, we were only disappointed by the fact that our double bed was two twins pushed together. Nevertheless, the room was practical and well equipped, with a small seating area and a flat-screen TV. My boyfriend summed it up as an ideal combination of urban chic and comfortable intimacy.

We woke up indulgently late on the first day of our spontaneous weekend retreat to Hungary’s spa-town capital. What I had considered a cool, muted ambience the previous evening had been replaced by warmth and light, as a glimmer of sunlight slipped through the curtains signalling morning. Cocooned in the white sheets, and listening to my partner’s steady breathing, I actually found our petite bolthole surprisingly sensual.

Leaving him sleeping, I made my way to the bathroom for a soak in our large tub. Running the bath, I sampled some of the delectable complimentary toiletries and laid back in the deep water, the steam rising turning my bathroom into an exclusive sauna in the City of Spas. A clatter from the bedroom drew me out of my daydream, imagining our forthcoming adventures in the city. We dressed quickly and nipped downstairs for breakfast, before heading out into the winding streets of the Old Town.

After tucking into a varied continental breakfast, we were privileged to discover that the Soho Boutique Hotel is within convenient walking distance of many of Budapest’s principal attractions. We were also spoilt for choice on our return by the wide range of bars, pubs and clubs lining the streets of the neighbourhood. If you’re looking for something slightly more conservative, cross the river to former Obuda. Here, you can find Budapest’s more sophisticated restaurant scene, as well as the city’s most famous Gellért thermal baths, before walking back to the hotel along the Danube River, glittering as the lights of the buildings on either side reflect in the languid waters at night.

Returning to the Soho as the sun sets, the contemporary brick façade glows a warm, inviting orange. We slip inside on a gust of cool early evening air, and settle down with a invigorating cocktail at the bar, contented in the knowledge that we simply have to retreat upstairs to our intimate, urban bolthole at the Soho Boutique Hotel.