Rollan de By

Bégadan is a commune close to the Gironde Estuary in the Medoc region of Aquitaine, about an hour from Bordeaux. It i’s home to the delightful hotel Rollan de By, set amidst rolling vineyards. Domaine Rollan de By, in which the hotel sits, now covers nearly 200 hectares with the acquisition of the Greysac vineyards at end of 2012, which previously belonged to the famous Agnelli family (owners of Fiat and Ferrari). The hotel is an 18th-century cream-coloured, two-storey building with white shutters, which Jean Guyon – the hotel’s owner and designer graduated from École Boulle - has filled with antique furniture, statues, rugs and 18th-century paintings. Together with managers Deborah and Benjamin, he has created a four-star retreat worthy of this extraordinary setting.

The welcome is discreet, friendly and efficient, and despite the grandeur of the location in the middle of extensive vineyards it feels homely. The hotel has 6 rooms, each one is uniquely named and decorated: La Suite Tour Seran, La Suite Merlot ... they are well thought out, bright and spacious, and full of little luxuries. Canopy beds transport you to a different era while velvet sofas add a touch of decadence. They are complete with all the modern creature comforts you would expect like a minibar, flat-screen TV and Wi-Fi. Our bedroom was furnished in shades of cream and sky blue matched with light oak furniture and made me want to redecorate my own as soon as I returned home. The bathrooms too were gorgeous with double wash-basins, rainfall shower and a bath as well.

Breakfast is served in the Tisanerie on the ground floor. It’s a seasonal feast comprising hot drinks, fruit juices, fresh breads, pastries, jams, honeys, yoghurts, cereals, eggs and cheeses, and will set you up well for a day’s exploring. Travel the Chateaux du Medoc wine route and discover a variety of wines, cellars and vineyards. If you prefer to stretch your legs in the bracing sea air then stroll along the beaches of the Gironde Estuary, past one of the oldest lighthouses in France, and admire the wild salt marshes, home to many species of flora and fauna. The coastline of the Côte d’Argent is home to the Dune de Pilat, Europe’s highest sand dune at a towering 100 m tall. If culture is more your thing, then wander into Bégadan itself and visit the old church or travel a little further afield to see the Vensac windmill that still produces flour.

One of the highlights of our stay was gathering on the beautiful terrace overlooking the garden, after a tour of the wine cellar, for a tasting session. The best thing about coming to Hôtel Rollan de By is that you are afforded a rare opportunity to experience day-to-day life in a winery. Sitting comfortably on the terrace admiring the vineyards, and their changing colours in the fading light, you don’t need to be a wine connoisseur to fall under the spell of this idyllic patch of France.