Pousada de Lisboa - Praça do Comércio ★★★★★

The newly renovated Pousada de Lisbona stands proudly dignified in its place forming one side of the U-shaped square of Praça do Comércio , bordered by the triumphal arch of Arco da Rua Augusta and the Tagus River. The original building was an important part of the reconstruction of Lisbon after the earthquake of 1755 and served as government ministerial offices. Now with completely refurbished interiors, the building nevertheless retains its classical proportions, sweeping staircases and high halls of the original design. When you step inside from the wide open spaces of the square, you see that the beautiful entrance hall has also retained many original fixtures and genuine antiques, and the staircase that sweeps to the upper floors exudes pure romantic architectural grandeur.

But little modern touches give the game away that this is a thoroughly modern enterprise: perfectly trained and courteous staff look after your every need, the communal areas and private rooms are sparkling and spotless, and all five-star modern facilities are on hand. We couldn’t have discovered a nicer place to stay in the centre of lovely Lisbon; indeed, I don’t believe there is one. In our peaceful bedroom, the white-painted headboard was made of delicately carved wood and top-quality materials were used everywhere from the soft bathrobes to the pillows.

It’s absolutely magical to walk across the huge Praça do Comércio square in the evening, with the statue of King José l looming over his domain with the magnificent triumphal arch behind him, and stroll toward the lights reflected on the water of the old harbour on the Tagus. History surrounds you in the city of Lisbon and it wears its venerable past with dignity, but also absorbs contemporary style and facilities with nonchalant ease.

Back at the hotel, we took our drink from the bar onto the terrace in front of the hotel to enjoy the early-evening sights of the square, eventually making our way to the dining room. This room occupies a high hall where chandeliers and delicate candelabras on the tables cast a soft glow over the tables and richly-decorated walls – a lovely setting for a special Portuguese meal, full of traditional specialities.

We made the most of the sauna and swimming pool over the next few days, keeping our cool and enjoying every minute of our stay in Lisbon, especially revelling in the colourful, Small Luxury Hotel par excellence, Pousada de Lisboa – Praça do Comércio.