Grand Hotel et des Palmes ★★★★★L

Strolling through Palermo’s charming old centre – taking in the pretty boats, the stunning cathedral and enchanting palazzos and piazzas – there was one building which particularly caught my eye... the world-famous Teatro Massimo opera house. Of course, I recognised it as the location of the climactic final scene of the third Godfather. What a coincidence then, that just around the corner sits another esteemed establishment with historic opera and mafia ties...

The Grand Hotel et des Palmes was a favourite of Wagner, and it was here that he found inspiration for his final opera, Parsifal. Later, after WWII and rising mafias had changed the landscape, a group of high-level Sicilian and American Mafiosi held an infamous and mysterious mafia summit here. You can see why the prestigious composers and mafia leaders alike chose this hotel, with its decadent opera-house-style and luxury befitting of a criminal millionaire mastermind.

The belle époque façade and colonnaded entrance immediately make an impression, while the interior is a masterpiece of old-fashioned grandeur. Upon entering, I had to take a moment to marvel at the gleaming marble floors, staircases and columns, velvet upholstery and plush carpets, antique furnishings, the gilt-edged paintings and mirrors, intricate statues and dazzling chandeliers. All working together like an orchestra in perfect harmony – and there it was, the bust of Wagner himself to complete the picture.

The same luxurious style and quaint, traditional décor could be found in my room, and I certainly glimpsed the kind of lavish comfort and extravagance which surely attracted the Mafiosi back in the 50s. Nowadays of course, alongside the timeless antiques are all the latest mod-cons.

When evening falls, you can just about picture a couple of mafia dons sipping a glass of whisky and smoking a cigar in the burgundy leather armchairs of the atmospheric Mixology bar. Meanwhile, the NeoBistrot and La Palmette restaurant both provide upmarket, refined surroundings to enjoy delectable cuisine, infused with international flavours.

With the magnificent city of Palermo on the majestic doorstep, after a long day of exploring the Grand Hotel et des Palmes is right there waiting for you!