Riad Charai

Marrakech’s old town buzzes with life but the noise stops as soon as you cross the threshold of one of its palaces. The sculpted wooden door of the Riad Charaï completely blocks out the murmur from the souks. It is only when you climb up onto the roof terrace, which offers panoramic views over the chimney tops of the kasbahs and across to the Atlas Mountains, that you remember you are not in the middle of the countryside. No, you are in the heart of the palpitating Ochre City, and just a fifteen minute walk from the famous Jemaa-el-Fna square.

While I was admiring this fantastic view I was lucky enough to be served the famous Moroccan mint tea, accompanied by succulent little Moroccan pastry cakes dripping with almond, honey and orange blossom. Among the best Moroccan traditions that this riad has retained is that of a hearty welcome, which is often intimately linked to fine food. So I decided to book a place for a traditional cookery lesson that was to be followed by a classic dinner prepared that evening. The tagine with olives and lemon and the deliciously sweet and sour pastilla were served in a lovely Moroccan dining room that opens out onto the patio.

One of the best surprises that you discover in the riad is quite simply the space that it offers. In the heart of the city centre you might expect to be squashed into little cosy rooms, but here you will be pleased to find airy and spacious living and sleeping quarters. These proportions are perfect for letting in the North African sun, which you can enjoy on the large terrace with a swimming pool and sun loungers - perfect for a lazy afternoon. In the evening, when it is lit up with dozens of Moroccan lanterns, this patio looks like one of the prettiest palaces you could imagine, and becomes a great spot for a pre-dinner drink.

It was always a pleasure to get back to the comfort of my room at the Riad Charaï, which was decorated with sumptuous Moroccan furniture that was nevertheless pleasingly simple. The bedrooms and suites at the Riad Charaï are charming and intricate with their patterned doors, window shutters, alcoves and bathrooms. My bedroom also had a fireplace, and even though there was not a hint of a draft, it really is a luxury to fall asleep in front of an open fire.

In the morning you will wake up to yet another treat: the copious breakfast including those famous Moroccan pancakes, fresh juice and pastries to accompany your morning coffee and prepare you for the coming day.

After a day of visits, walks and shopping to find presents for everyone at home, I had just one wish – I really wanted to relax in a traditional hammam. A range of treatments and massages with oils is on offer at the riad’s very own spa. I went for a relaxing argan oil massage and a blow-dry for my hair as I was heading out for an evening for dinner and drinks in the city with my other half. 

Thank you to the Riad Charaï team for your warm welcome, you treated us like royalty!