Provence sums up the essence of France – its majestic mountains, seductive coastlines, rippling lavender fields and honey stone hilltop villages have inspired everyone from Picasso to Van Gogh. It’s a place offering complete diversity, with the perfect balance of culture, leisure and relaxation. In a single day you can have a whole holiday’s worth of experiences: breakfast on the beach, a morning exploring a medieval town, lunch at a country auberge in the mountains, an afternoon hiking or cycling, a vineyard visit, a game of pétanque and a mesmerising sunset over the Alps. Situated in the historic village of Gemenos at the foot of the Saint Baume Massif, an 18th century ivy-wrapped country house has been owned by three generations of the same family who make sure every guest has an unforgettable stay at La Magdeleine - Mathias Dandine .
“We had been here often before as tourists, desperate for our annual ration of two or three weeks of true heat and sharp light. Always when we left, with peeling noses and regret, we promised ourselves that one day we would live here. We had talked about it during the long grey winters and the damp green summers, looked with an addict’s longing at photographs of village markets and vineyards, dreamed of being woken up by the sun slanting through the bedroom window.” – A Year in Provence, Peter Mayle
I’m not usually one to be spontaneous, but after not being able to put down a light-hearted autobiography telling the story of a British businessman who chucked it all and bought a house in postcard-perfect Provence with his wife, I made a little exception. My husband wasn’t convinced, but after I persuaded him to read it too, we were both longing for a trip to the South of France.
Two weeks later, we packed our sun cream, passports and of course the book which had inspired our adventure (it’s a great travel/restaurant guide for a cultural discovery as well as an excellent read!), and jetted off to the enchanting region of Provence. Less than an hour after touching down in Marseilles, we had already arrived at our home for the next week. Nestled in a two hectare park filled with plane trees, fountains and terraces with a backdrop of the delightful Provencal landscape, you’ll find La Magdeleine - Mathias Dandine . It’s a place where you can sleep on canopied beds, stroll through gardens graced with century-old trees, curl up by the fire in the lounge, and dine on gastronomic cuisine at the restaurant.
We were shown to our ‘Chambre Privilège’ by the friendly staff… a gorgeous bedroom with sandblasted walls and authentic wooden beams, with a large window offering views of the gardens. The tasteful period furniture gave it a homely feel, and we had everything we could possibly need including a TV, free Wi-Fi, air-conditioning, a safe, a pair of bathrobes, slippers and a lovely selection of welcome products.
“What a marvelous sunset,' she said. 'Yes,' replied her husband. 'Most impressive for such a small village.”
We made the most of the last of the day’s sunshine and headed to the outdoor swimming pool, surrounded by the pleasant aroma of lavender and the serenity of the countryside. We soaked up the laidback ambience and admired the sunset from the comfort of the hot tub… pure bliss!
“It was a meal that we shall never forget; more accurately, it was several meals that we shall never forget, because it went beyond the gastronomic frontiers of anything we had ever experienced.”
Keen to see what all the fuss was about when it came to French cuisine, we wandered up to the restaurant to tantalise our taste buds on a selection of traditional delicacies. When we couldn’t possibly eat any more, we sat on the terrace and enjoyed a few glasses of fine Provencal wines – the perfect end to our first day.
“If they had to put up with the gales that come off the English Channel and bend the rain so that it hits you in the face almost horizontally, then they might know what a real wind was like.”
We spent the rest of the week exploring Provence’s hidden treasures, from the sun drenched beaches and the famous Calanques National Park, to pastel-coloured medieval towns and villages with a traditional ‘art-de-vivre’. Needless to say, we both left longing to return - maybe even follow in Peter Mayle’s footsteps and move to magical Provence…
Staying in a country house surrounded by lavender fields and olive groves, just 10 kilometres from the renowned Calanques National Park.
Indulging in refined cuisine and local wines at the elegant Bastide Relais Restaurant.
The multitude of facilities including an outdoor pool, a hot tub, a fitness centre, a book-lined lounge, an upscale restaurant and beautiful gardens lined with terraces and fountains.
The French-country décor and elegant period furniture filling the hotel, with delightful fabrics and antiques collected by the three generations of family who have lived there.
