Riad Kumeia ★★★★

“Marrakech taught me colour.” - Yves Saint Laurent

Sitting on the roof terrace of our lovely Riad Kumeia, listening to the sound of the muezzin’s call to prayer and smelling the Moroccan spices wafting up from a nearby restaurant… I simply couldn’t be happier at this moment. We had arrived early in the morning after a quick flight from London, and got straight into the action by making our way to the overflowing medina. It’s a colourful riot of noise, culture and sweet and spicy aromas to keep all your senses in overload, and the Djemaa El Fna is quite unlike anything else I’ve ever experienced. By day, the huge square is brimming with snake charmers, medicine men, fresh orange juice vendors and henna artists, and of course it’s the entrance to the renowned souk… a maze of atmospheric lanes and pathways that have barely changed since medieval times. But it’s at dusk when it really starts to come alive. The square gradually fills until it becomes a carnival of storytellers, fire-eaters, acrobats, musicians and entertainers – an amazing spectacle to be a part of, or if you want a respite, you can move to one of the rooftop terraces to enjoy a spectacular birds-eye-view of the square. We feasted on delicious Moroccan cuisine… spicy couscous and lamb tagine prepared using fresh and local ingredients and boasting more flavours than I’ve ever tasted in one dish: saffron, mint, oranges, cinnamon, ginger, paprika, coriander, lemon and more. Morocco’s interaction with other cultures and nations over the centuries including Berber, Moorish, Arab and Mediterranean influences has led to its incredibly diverse and unique cuisine which is served in restaurants all over the world.

We could have quite happily stayed until the early hours of the morning, chatting away to the friendly locals who told us fascinating stories about Morocco’s history, but we were in need of a good sleep before another busy day. So we walked back to our riad, just twenty minutes from the hustle and bustle of the square – hard to believe when you enter the little haven of peace. The Riad Kumeia is completely authentic, with refined Moroccan décor and vibrant artwork adding splashes of colour to the sand-coloured walls and traditional furnishings. The courtyard has an indoor pool next to a cosy lounge area where you can have some time to yourself or with your loved ones after a hectic day in the Red City. The roof terrace is absolutely stunning, bordered by plants and candles, with a view over the city and the mountains in the background, and an assortment of cushions on the sofas arranged around little wooden tables. It’s a real oasis of serenity, and the perfect place to enjoy a refreshing cocktail or perhaps a sweet mint tea before bedtime. I couldn’t help using the free Wi-Fi to send a few envy-inducing photos to my friends at home before I called it a night!

Breakfast on the terrace the following morning was divine: a plentiful selection of fresh pastries, fruit, juice, eggs, and of course, mint tea. It was the perfect way to set us up for our second day which involved camel riding, Kasbahs and a traditional hammam massage. After a couple of days, I was completely in love with the city, and vowed to come back at least once before the heat of next summer – and where better place to stay than the lovely Riad Kumeia?!