Domaine de l'Arganeraie

Morocco is definitely the closest to exotic that you can get within easy reach of the UK. The vibrancy and endless colours of Marrakech are legendary, the charms of Agadir just as beautiful without the frenetic bustle, but for me, accompanied by a small child as I was, it had to be Essaouira. There is nothing to match the fresh Atlantic climate, the picturesque alleys of the little town and its harbour swarming with bright boats and friendly faces. The Atlantic may crash against the huge ramparts of the town, but inside all is peace. Out in the countryside the climate is generously fresh and cool even in summer, the landscape is green, and the space and light create a sense of freedom.

We found our destination only a few minutes from the town, surrounded by its own bright gardens with a huge landscaped pool discreetly hidden from view behind a screen of shrubbery. The building is the rich earthy red so typical of Morocco and the main building, low behind the trees, is surrounded by other villas, widely spaced to give a real sense of privacy. Our hosts Hélène and Jean-Pierre were on hand to greet us with mint tea and some little nibbles, in which my niece found her first taste of the exotic. That’s what’s so nice about children at a certain age: every new discovery is a complete delight!

Many more delights were to follow in our Superior Room with its own garden terrace. The first one was that it was wonderfully spacious; there was none of the cramped-together furniture you sometimes find. This was open, airy and relaxing with windows on two sides making it bright and welcoming. Intricate parquet flooring stretched between the beds and the lounge area. The beds, sofa and coffee table had delicate wrought-iron frames. The bathroom was all in traditional Moroccan tadelakt plaster work, smooth as marble but the colour of the earth. This is where I was heading to freshen up, while my niece, pausing only to switch into a costume, dashed gleefully off to the pool. That’s where I found her when I emerged, playing with two friendly little dogs. She was equally thrilled with the visiting birds on the pool, a couple of tortoises ambling around in the grass, and the donkey that was on call to help with luggage.

Dinner in the Arganeraie Restaurant was spent in the lovely light-filled room with views of the gardens, dining on what was my niece’s first ever authentic tagine which she loved. We had some Moroccan sweets to follow and while eating we planned our adventures for the next few days. These were going to include breakfast by the pool, horse riding, camel riding and exploring the alleys and byways of lovely Essaouira, its pretty harbour and the mighty rampart walls. And I wasn’t allowed to forget a trip to the seemingly endless beaches of the famous Gulf of Mogador.

As my niece lay peacefully sleeping on our last evening, I took a glass of wine out to the terrace to admire the stars. Somewhere happy… mission accomplished! The Domaine l’Arganeraie was everything we could have wished for.