The Riad Tarifa

With a surf-obsessed son, a sun-obsessed daughter, a history-obsessed husband and me, a culture vulture who appreciates a bit of luxury and relaxation from time to time, it’s almost impossible to find a holiday that suits us all. This year I didn’t have to spend months choosing somewhere though, all thanks to my son who came home one day and told me he was desperate to go to Tarifa, one of the best places in the world for windsurfing. I did some googling and was instantly impressed. It’s a quaint little town at the southernmost tip of Spain, inviting you to unwind whilst being surrounded by history, culture, and a distinctly Moroccan ambience. The one thing that was missing was somewhere to use as a base for our adventure, and where better to stay than a riad? I wanted something palace-like, with traditional décor and beautiful bedrooms surrounding a central courtyard, with a serene roof terrace offering magnificent views. A few minutes and a few clicks later and it was confirmed. We were off to The Riad in the heart of Tarifa’s Old Town.

We’d been to Andalucía before, the land of flamenco, overcrowded beaches and too much sangria, but Tarifa had a much more authentic and ‘off the beaten track’ vibe, side-by-side with ten kilometres of pristine white beaches and unspoilt countryside. Our journey from the airport took us into rolling green hills, offering views across the Gibraltar Strait to the just-discernible white houses and tapering minarets of Moroccan villages, with the Rif Mountains hovering mysteriously in the background. We drove through the historic centre and caught our first glimpse of the picturesque architecture and soaring spires dotted amongst the winding cobbled streets.

We arrived at The Riad, a 17th-century building with an enchanting baroque façade and original fresco paintings adorning its walls, where we were warmly welcomed by the lovely owners. They showed us to our Superior Room, a beautiful and spacious haven decorated in a Moroccan style with a balcony overlooking the light-filled courtyard. Everything was renovated and fresh, and yet the original features were well-preserved, with traditional Tadelakt on the walls and antique furnishings. Our private bathroom was equipped with designer toiletries, and we had all the modern amenities that you’d expect from a high-quality hotel.

Knowing that everyone had different cravings to satisfy, I arranged a time with my family to reunite for an evening meal in a local restaurant which the staff had kindly recommended. My son headed straight for the beach for an afternoon of world-class surfing. The winds from the east and west have made the area a true surfer’s paradise, and one of the world’s most popular destinations for wind sports. The Mediterranean climate allows for warm summers and very mild winters, meaning my daughter quickly followed his lead for some mandatory basking in the sun. My husband headed into the historic town to explore the 800-year-old castle, the renowned Puerta de Jerez Gate and the original castellated city walls. Meanwhile I snuck off to make the most of the riad’s facilities. After unwinding in the Hammam, I let the expert masseuse’s magical hands get rid of any knots that remained after too much work and not enough rest and play. The Riad was just what I needed, and my whole family came away feeling happier and healthier than we had in a long time.