Château de Rochecotte ★★★★

When we British think “castle”, we think crumbling walls, draughty corridors and ghosts. Well, that’s why, when you stay in a French castle, you really need to call it a château, because apart from that just sounding so much more luxurious, these vast estates are a far cry from our medieval castles. More like opulent manors, they are fully modernised, offer incredible luxury and have not a ghost or ghoul in sight. The Château de Rochecotte is an excellent example: an 18th-century aristocratic estate presiding over vast gardens in the beautiful Loire Valley. Think “Downton Abbey” mixed with French nobility and you’ll have some idea of the opulence we’re talking about.

My friend and I were left speechless as soon as we pulled up to the hotel. From initially wanting a hotel base for visiting the vineyards and châteaux of the Loire region, to actually booking a room in a real château with its own vineyard to boot, we still couldn’t quite believe our luck! The Rochecotte is a typical Empire-style demure edifice, with layered white stone and decorative balustrades like some kind of delicious wedding cake! As we drove amongst stately sculpted hedges and French gardens, the château rose to meet us, backed by a vast forest that added to its magnificence.

Inside, the luxurious baroque style was everywhere, from the Napoleon III library to our Prestige room, draped in silks yet offering chic modern comfort. We barely noticed the charming antique chairs and desk or the ornate commode, as our eyes were drawn to the heavily-draped windows that opened onto a fabulous view of the grounds.

These grounds were to be our constant companions throughout our stay, be it while sipping on a full-bodied red from the Rochecotte’s own vineyard on the vast Italian terrace, or while tucking into our complimentary breakfast – courtesy of VeryChic – under the flower-bedecked arches. Most mornings, we got off to a refreshing start with a swim in the heated outdoor pool or simply a stroll in these grounds, each time discovering a new sculpture or ancient tree. In the evenings we would dine like true royalty in the opulent restaurant or out on the veranda, with each dish presented so artfully it was difficult not to whip out our iPhones and take a photo like common peasants!

The feeling of being cut off from the outside world was palpable, yet in truth all the Loire had to offer was just a short drive away. The village of Saint Patrice, just 15 minutes away, made for a charming afternoon trip, while visiting Balzac’s stately home in Saché offered a fascinating cultural experience, and lest we forget the fabulous vineyards offering tastings along almost every road! By the time our stay was over, we felt almost at home in this opulent castle setting, able to discuss the subtleties of wine bouquets with the best of them, and rhapsodising on the genius of Honoré de Balzac… Truly, the Château de Rochecotte not only welcomes you like royalty, but leaves you feeling distinctly regal for days, even weeks after…