Appart'Hôtel Le Cheval Blanc

“It was a pleasure to feel one’s self in Provence again – the land where the silver-gray earth is impregnated with the light of the sky” – Henry James, A Little Tour in France.

Nîmes, often referred to as the French Rome, was settled by the Romans while they were building the road between Rome and Spain, and their remaining legacies include the amphitheatre in the centre of the city, baths and temples dotted throughout the Jardin de La Fontaine, and the world-famous aqueduct of Pont du Gard, only twelve miles away. We had driven through the lovely landscape, admiring the sunlight falling on Henry James’s ‘silver-gray earth’ dotted with olive trees. In the heart of the city, only a five-minute walk from Nîmes Train Station, we found our destination, Le Cheval Blanc. The aparthotel is housed in a lovely historic building facing the arched exterior of the amphitheatre across one of the city’s extensive squares, bright flowers gaily bedecking the filigree iron-work of the balconies.

The concierge at the reception desk was friendly and welcoming, and the public spaces were attractive, with exposed stone walls in the guest lounge and a dining room overlooking the magnificent view. We were delighted with our room, which had all the comforts that Henry James would have had on his travels, plus a lot more, in the shape of Wi-Fi, air-conditioning, a nice large bathroom and a kitchenette so we could make our own snacks. We were to make good use of this following a visit to the central food market, Les Halles, where we couldn’t resist stocking up on Provençal delicacies and bringing them back to enjoy in the hotel. But, since we were following in the great man’s footsteps, we set out immediately.

“As soon as I arrived at Nîmes, I engaged a calèche to convey me to the Pont du Gard … I became more intimate with that Provençal charm … which glowed in the sweet sunshine and the white rocks and lurked in the smoke-puffs of the little olives.” – Henry James, ibid.

No calèche for us, but we travelled the same wide Roman road, and found the Pont du Gard in all its splendour, the three levels soaring nearly 50 metres over the River Gardon. In spite of its height it’s almost hidden in the landscape, so we didn’t see it until we were nearly there. It was a wonderful trip and we returned to Nîmes ready for some Provençal cuisine. That evening, we stayed in to eat and were so glad that we did! The cosy restaurant has vaulted ceilings and huge windows overlooking the floodlit arena, the service was good and the food was delicious. With a skilfully recommended bottle of regional wine, we slept peacefully that night in the quiet of our room.

We were looking forward to more explorations of the treasures of Nîmes the next day, including the fabulous Maison Carrée and the modern art museum Carré d’Art. We enjoyed some things like the city centre shops and restaurants that Henry James wouldn’t have seen but many that he certainly did, and knowing that made our experience even more memorable. We were so glad that his love of the French provinces had brought us to Le Cheval Blanc!