Auberge La Fenière ★★★★

Part of my motive for our stay at the Auberge La Fenière was to learn about French cuisine at their cookery school. I may never forgive myself if I don't learn the secrets of making real pastry or a proper béchamel sauce. In fact, after a couple of weeks in France, with my stomach feeling more cheerful than ever, I'm starting to wonder how I ever lasted so long without knowing these culinary skills! We arrive at the hotel following a scenic drive. Medieval hilltop towns are perched high and look out over undulating green and ochre fields, pitted with slender cypress trees and olive groves. The Auberge La Fenière is a beautiful grand property, an old stone building standing in well-kept grounds. This is what happens when the simple things of life are celebrated.

Our 'petite suite' was designed to blend in with its rustic and elegant surroundings, with rattan and solid wood furniture and a terracotta tiled floor. The colour scheme was in greens and browns, reminiscent of the nature outside. The lounge area had comfortable chairs, a chaise longue and thick pile rug. There was original artwork on the walls. The bathroom was bijou but tastefully decorated with a bath and shower. We spent most of our time out on our terrace, enjoying the view and soaking up the peaceful ambience all around.

As soon as we'd settled into our room we were off to get something to eat! It's one of life's unsolved mysteries how the French stay so slim… We were shown to the restaurant's terrace, where tables are laid out in linens and pretty chequered cloths. The rustic surroundings are enlivened by bright red canopies and parasols, which chime with the hibiscus flowers in earthen pots. The view over the garden and the grounds is delightful.

The Auberge La Fenière **** has another very strong asset - its Michelin starred chef, Reine Sammut. Reine is the teacher of the hotel's weekly cookery lessons, so I had a vested interest in enjoying the food! Predictably, our lunch was delicious. You can't go far wrong when you combine pure and fresh ingredients with culinary expertise. After lunch we took a stroll through the grounds of the hotel. We explored the little paths around the organic vegetable garden. There's plenty of inviting lawn space, and even a boules court. I was more tempted by the look of the two outdoor swimming pools, and the sight of an outdoor children's play area fed my imagination. I thought how perfect a place it would be for a larger, family gathering …

I can't say I'm anywhere close to realising my dream of transporting something of the French kitchen back to mine. After my cooking class with one of Provence's masters, though, I am a step closer. Staying at the Auberge La Fenière **** was a glimpse into a rural idyll which was deeply relaxing and rejuvenating. When I've exhausted all the possibilities of things to do with a fantastic béchamel sauce, I'm planning to return!