Hôtel Alpenrose ★★★★

As we drive up the famous 21 bends that lead up to the resort, my husband and kids are excitedly shouting out names of past Tour de France winners. Behind the driver’s seat, sunglasses on, I block out their chatter and take in the landscape. The Alpe d’Huez is fondly known as the Ile au Soleil (or island in the sun) as it sits facing southwest on a high plateau in the Grandes Rousses mountain range, ensuring plenty of sunshine and good weather.

The Alpenrose Hotel, a fairly recent construction, is dazzling as we approach, its large, modern bay windows gleaming in the sunshine. Friendly staff greet us as we arrive, help my husband get the bikes off the car and take care of our luggage. We are in a prestige duplex suite which provides more than enough space for my husband, my two eldest kids and myself. The décor is modern chalet-chic. Downstairs there is a very comfortable and stylish living room and dining area. There is also a small courtesy kitchen, but I don’t think we’ll be using that for more than coffee in the morning and the occasional snack. I don’t intend to do much cooking this week! Our balcony faces south and we have a wonderful view of the rolling slopes. Some of the towering mountains in the background are still capped in snow.

We go down to the hotel bar after freshening up in our well-equipped bath and shower rooms to plan the week’s itinerary. This is actually the first time we’ve visited the mountains outside of the ski season and we’re a bit lost as to what to do. My husband obviously wants to go biking but I don’t want to spend the whole week with muscle pain. The cheery bartender happily gives us some advice on other activities we could all do together, like hiking or fishing, and recommends the hotel spa to alleviate aching limbs.

Our evening meal is fantastic. Tonight we are dining in the superb dining room facing the magnificent view of the sun going down over the mountains. I’m surprised at the choice – even my picky children manage to find something to suit their tastes on the menu. I’m fairly sure you could eat here every night of the week and not have the same meal twice! From traditional mountain fare like Tartiflette or steaming onion soup to more refined food like foie gras or quails, the food makes you want to come back for more.

After dinner, I relax in front of the wide-screen TV as my husband plans tomorrow’s bike route. I have to admit that without skis on my feet, I’m a bit daunted by the hills and vales – I’ve already booked a massage at the spa for when we get back! Footage of today’s stage of the Tour de France comes up on the news. In a few days’ time, the cameras will be on us (in a manner of speaking) as the cyclists approach the Alpe d’Huez. The town already seems to be buzzing in anticipation and, with the Alpenrose Hotel as our home for the week, we are all eager to join in the fun.