Gran Hotel Domine ★★★★★

Perhaps inspired by the extraordinary museum over the road, the Gran Hotel Domine is almost a museum in its own right. Its décor and especially its rich collection of furniture is a journey through the best of 20th century design, using the finest elements from different design schools to come up with its own inimitable style. In fact, as you make you make your way through the door and up the floors towards your room, it can almost feel like flicking through the pages of a modern design brochure. Designers Javier Mariscal and Fernando Salas have simply done a marvellous job, adding to the list of masters who have waved their magic wand to instantly transform Bilbao.

On the ground floor, you could not fail to notice Le Café Metropol, an homage to the Bauhaus style which dominated the 1920s. Bedecked in black and white and stainless steel, it also has a glass wall affording views of the museum and Jeff Koons’s famous flowery Puppy, the museum’s gargantuan guard dog. These views are replicated by the Splash and Crash bar on the other side of the main entrance, and which, combined with its trendy ambience and lively music, attract a clientele as cosmopolitan as the atmosphere. In this space, the 1920s are well and truly left behind, with plain whites and daring splashes of red encapsulating the passion and spirit of the 1960s.

And then there is the Txoko quiet corner, much more eclectic with its mixture of styles, a jumble of beautiful pieces of 20th century furniture which retains a calm and cosy atmosphere, particularly in the winter when the fire is roaring. The library of books on design and architecture will embellish your appreciation of the décor around you, and give you an insight into Salas and Mariscal’s inspiration.

More than simply mixing the styles of other great designers, however, these two have left their own unmistakable stamp on the Gran Hotel Domine. Probably the most remarkable feature is Mariscal’s titanic ‘Fossil Cypress’, soaring from the floor all the way up to the skylight which floods the atrium with natural light. So simple but so effective, this colossal monolith is elegant but somehow not ostentatious.

Their style extends into the bedrooms, where nothing is placed without care. Again it is not overbearing, but little touches like quirky artwork and decoration, and chairs which combine straight lines and curves in the style of the Guggenheim, lend the rooms plenty of character. The Guggenheim itself sits invitingly across from the Deluxe rooms and a huge window, or rather a glazed wall, leans out longingly towards it.

Combining form and function, these rooms are supremely comfortable and flawlessly luxurious – you have at your disposal amenities such as excellent sound systems, satellite TV, internet access, mini-bar, climate control and various VIP accessories. Some of the rooms are even designed such that you can enjoy the panoramic view from in the shower, while you can still bring a blind over the glass wall of the bathroom if you refer your privacy.

With the view teasing and tantalising you, it will doubtless not be long before you make the long voyage across the road and explore the Guggenheim. Just as the seemingly random curves of the daring exterior are actually meticulously thought out to catch the light, the interior is fluid and coherent, with a collection of contemporary and modern art to rival the special architecture. Just as the museum transformed the town, it transformed me into a lover of modern art. I had been something of a cynic beforehand, but never before had I come across a museum which blended so seamlessly with its surroundings and with its own exhibits, with spectacular results.

Undeniably dominant as this eye-catching structure may be, there is another side to Bilbao. There is plenty of sightseeing to be done in the Casco Viejo, the medieval old town. With several historic churches and Europe’s largest food market, it is certainly worth strolling along and between its famous Siete Calles (seven streets). And to complete the experience, you absolutely cannot miss soaking in the atmosphere as you try some pintxos. These are the speciality of the Basque Country, found in any bar around, and essentially consist of a skewered form of tapas – authentic, traditional and delicious.

While the rustic charm and character of pintxos are as much a part of the Bilbao experience as the Guggenheim, the altogether more refined cuisine at the hotel’s Doma restaurant offers just as much soul and some of the best flavours you will have ever come across. It is headed by Martín Berasategui, who expertly makes use of local market ingredients to allow diners to savour the typical tastes and sumptuous smells of the Basque Country. It took just one bite of this genius’s food for me to fully comprehend why no man in Spain holds more Michelin stars.

Stylish as it is, you could never accuse the Gran Hotel Domine of being all style no substance. From the modern gym to the brilliant breakfast with breath-taking views from the roof terrace, the hotel proves more than worthy of its five stars. The design in the rooms is complemented by the very best luxuries and functionality, the style of the bars by attentive and friendly service. You could also not deny, however, that design is the principal feature of modern Bilbao, and this is where the hotel truly excels.