Georges Blanc Parc & Spa ★★★★★

Speaking to a French colleague the other day, discussion turned to national stereotypes, so endemic in two countries whose friendly rivalry has made us the best of enemies for hundreds of years. Apparently she considered me a rain-loving, socks-and-sandals-wearing ‘rosbif’ who lived off fish and chips and tea. While I do not actually enjoy my country’s tempestuous weather, or even own a pair of sandals (not much point when the sun never comes out), I will admit that the English cuisine leaves something to be desired. No matter how much I enjoy a greasy portion of fish and chips on a wet and windy day by the seaside, sheltering my precious batter from an army of pesky seagulls, I am happy to accept that I prefer the French haute cuisine.

No problem, I am more than willing to hop over the channel to get a taste of our Gallic neighbours’ superior gastronomy, and so I booked into Georges Blanc’s ‘gastronomic village’, among the finest places to eat in all of France! This village within a village is a collection of houses around Vonnas’s main square which were all purchased and renovated by Georges Blanc. They surround his old family restaurant, and retain the same atmosphere from when his great-grandparents first set up shop here. Leafy, green, floral and set beside the water, the pretty village is an idyllic vision of provincial France.

I suppose I should cut to the chase and get straight onto the restaurant. This was, in fact, the first triple-Michelin-starred restaurant I had ever been to, and I will admit to being ever-so-slightly sceptical. I had eaten at outstanding single and even double-starred restaurants, believing that they were near enough perfection as made no difference. Could Blanc’s cooking really be that much better than the other culinary masters who had tickled my taste buds over the years? The answer was a resounding ‘yes’.

My first meal at the gourmet restaurant was the finest gastronomic experience of my life. Blanc reinvents regional specialties and raises the bar for traditional cooking with a creative twist. He plays on local classics such as Bresse chicken as well as traditional family recipes such as the ‘Vonnas crêpes’ that his grandmother used to make. Many of the dishes have been cooked here for generations, reworked and revisited again and again to perfection, such that you can taste the 150 years of history on every plate. Each one is an explosion of flavours, colours and smells, a veritable treat for the senses. It is no wonder that this restaurant has been Michelin-starred since 1929 (a world record!), or that Georges Blanc has won prestigious awards such as Best Craftsman in France and Gault et Millau’s cook of the year.

Another award of his is a 1970 prize for Best Sommelier, an illustration that he appreciates the importance of the symbiosis of food and wine. The wine list ranks among the world’s best, and the cellar boasts more than 140,000 bottles of the finest wines from France and around the globe. Upon request, you can visit the cellars, and it is a truly awe-inspiring experience to consider all the history and expertise that went into selecting every single bottle.

Aside from the gourmet restaurant, there is the Ancienne Auberge, in the old family restaurant. Everything here is traditional – the recipes are French classics that have been passed down through the family for generations, while the decor and ambience are as authentic as possible, with many of the original touches from the 1870s. You can picture the weary farmers who would come in here over a hundred years ago, hang up their berets and order a refreshing glass of home-made lemonade and perhaps a comforting plate of poulet de Bresse cooked up by Madame Blanc. After dinner, a stroll through the illuminated gardens is an absolute must, an enchanting and magical experience.

In fact, it is always worth meandering around the grounds during the day too, in an attempt to work up an appetite for the evening. On your way, you will realise how this charming little village is about so much more than just a good dinner every day. You will wander past a lazily bubbling stream, still ponds and a shimmering lake, flowery walkways, intelligently-planted gardens, a beautiful 17th century dovecot, a little vineyard, greenhouses and vegetable gardens, an orchard and a typical village square. Not a bad location for a peaceful promenade!

If you were to tire of walking, you can continue living the authentic French village life with a game of boules, or relax in either of the two spectacular outdoor swimming pools, one riverside and one lakeside. If you are feeling more energetic, there is a tennis court to burn off those calories from the night before (or even from the exquisite array of breakfast treats). And why not buy a spot of lunch from the hotel’s boulangerie, stock up on gourmet produce at the ‘Boutique Gourmande’, or kitchen goodies at the ‘Cuisine Passion’ shop? Furthermore, there is the brand new Laurent Gerra cinema, and there is the magnificent mosaic spa, complete with a heated indoor swimming pool in the fabulous orangery, and offering a fantastic range of facilities and Decléor & Carita treatments.

I have gone on for so long about the food and facilities that I have neglected one of the most important and impressive aspects – the interior and the rooms! Inside, the hotel is every bit as impressive as it is outside, with comfortable, spacious and well equipped rooms, offering stunning views and five-star standards of luxury. The décor is warm, traditional and elegant, and the atmosphere friendly and relaxed. After a fantastic day of fun and feasting, your return to these rooms completes the perfect hotel experience, the icing on Georges Blanc’s gourmet gateau!

* Below is the 5-course menu prepared by Chef Georges Blanc and his team (menu is subject to changes):