Patmos Aktis Suites & Spa ★★★★★

I could pinpoint the very moment when I decided that this first stay at the Patmos Atkis would not be my last. There I was, laid out on my bed, feeling the soft embrace of my plush bedding and aromatherapy pillow. Full of exquisite Greek cuisine and plenty of wine, I had immediately rested my weary head upon returning to the suite; meanwhile my wife was running herself a soothing bath in the next room. It was a balmy evening, a mild breeze drifting lazily in through the wide-open balcony doors and gently tickling my face. From my position, I could still make out a few silhouettes of masts bobbing up and down ever so slightly in the calm bay. In a few hours, the sun would rise over that Mediterranean horizon, reflecting off the mirror-like water into our bedroom, but it would not be as joyous a sight as usual. This particular sunrise would symbolise the sun setting on the most perfect holiday we had ever been on. Unable to bear the thought that this would be the last time I ever laid eyes on that wondrous sight, I vowed to return.

Perhaps I am getting ahead of myself beginning with my last night, however - allow me to take you back to the start. Taking a romantic week away from dreary old Britain, we stepped off the plane in Athens, the Cradle of Civilisation. This seemingly insignificant detail is more important than you might think – Patmos is only accessible by boat, making it secluded and peaceful, off the beaten track for many tourists. Opting against flying to a closer island, we took a direct overnight ferry crossing from the capital, waking up in the port at Patmos. A long journey, therefore, but most rewarding as you step off the boat to see the sun rising over the glittering Mediterranean water. Our transfer to the hotel would take us roughly a third of the length of the island but would take just five minutes – this is a small, quiet place, an island paradise which Forbes listed as Europe’s most idyllic place to live, explaining that “Patmos has evolved over the centuries but has not lost its air of quiet tranquillity, which is one reason why people that know it return again and again."

The first thing that struck me upon our arrival at the Patmos Atkis was how the hotel seemed to mirror the Greek flag, the bright blues of the sky and the sea so close to the hotel that they almost appeared to mix with the celestial shades of white on the walls. This clean, bright white is not just limited to the exterior; as you enter the hotel everything seems to shine, light and airy. From the sofas in the bar to the crisp bed sheets, from the marble bathrooms to the sun-loungers on the beach, the colours throughout this beautifully designed hotel are pure, understated and minimalistic, just like the elegant décor. The suites feel spacious despite boasting all the luxury facilities you could wish for, and it is a sumptuously relaxing environment.

This certainly made a good impression as we entered our heavenly abode. Once unpacked, we were torn between sun-bathing on our veranda, perhaps taking a cooling dip in the private pool, or making the extremely short stroll down to the picturesque beach. We decided on the latter – the pool could wait. What a blissful first day we spent, napping on the sun-loungers as we recovered from our long journey, bathing in the crystalline Mediterranean, and gazing at the simply magnificent scenery, the charming sailing boats and the locals nonchalantly perambulating up and down the smooth pebbles of the beach. Our lazy day was punctuated only by a delicious Greek salad at the Theion Sea Bar, accompanied by some divine complimentary welcome cocktails as we sat with our feet almost in the water.

More than impressed by our first culinary experience at the hotel, we swiftly booked a table at the Apocalypsis Restaurant, with the assistance of a member of staff at the bar. The staff have this knack of never being in the way but always being nearby if you need them, helpful and friendly but in no way overbearing. Anyway, reservation made, that night we made our way to the restaurant and took our seats at a table with a view. What followed was one of our finest gastronomic experiences for a long time. We were presented with delightfully fresh Greek vegetables, perfectly prepared local seafood and sumptuous, melt-in-the-mouth desserts, all inventively and immaculately presented. Chef Dimitris Pamporis is a true genius, a master of his craft. The flavours of the Mediterranean still dancing in our mouths, we retired to our suite – the end of the most perfect day.

The rest of the week went by in a blur of lazy afternoons by the pool, scenic strolls along the beach, luxurious sessions in the spectacular spa, and exploration of the small but fascinating island. Patmos is a popular place for Christian pilgrims, so aside from its paradisiacal beaches and stunning hilly scenery, it also offers a range of old Christian monuments and impressive monasteries. Before I knew it, I found myself lying on my bed on that last night, wallowing in the warm evening temperatures and my own quiet sense of melancholy, promising myself that this would not be goodbye.