Aristi Mountain Resort ★★★★

We made the journey north from Ioannina with mounting excitement as the city gave way to plains and hills, and then further into the mountains on the western edge of the ‘backbone of Greece’, the Pindus mountain range in the region of Epirus. We had long heard of the Zagori villages, once populous but isolated centres of rural and agricultural activities, linked by paths made especially for the only local transport: the donkey. Sadly depopulated in the early twentieth century, the region is making a comeback as a centre for exploring the beauties of the villages themselves and the wonderful surrounding mountains, lakes and streams.

The Aristi Mountain Resort is in the upper part of one of the most beautiful of the Zagori villages. The buildings, separate villas surrounded by hotel services like restaurant and spa, are stone-built with grey-tiled roofs of local materials, blending into the rocky greenery around them. We found the hotel reception, and a warm welcome from the friendly staff. The rooms are spacious, and all of natural materials. Wooden floors and ceilings and a fireplace made us feel cosy straight away. Downstairs there is a living room with brightly upholstered oak furniture and a separate kitchen/dining room. Bedrooms upstairs are large, comfortable, with a king-size bed and bright woven bedspreads. A little balcony lets you relax outside with a cup of coffee and enjoy the fresh mountain air and wonderful views over the mountains.  We really felt as though we had come home to our own private mountain retreat! We settled in and then went to the Salvia Restaurant for a quiet evening planning our excursions over the next few days, and an early night.

The restaurant is named after the aromatic herb, salvia, which is indigenous in these mountains. It follows the same theme of stone and wood construction and is brightly decorated with warm lighting, pretty rugs and colourful artwork on the walls. Like the rest of the hotel, everything is geared to natural local products. It serves organic fruit and vegetables, including the typical Epirus ‘galotiri’, the fresh greens of the region which are like a sort of wild spinach. They have free-range meat and even wild boar from the Zagori Mountains and trout from local rivers. They are also proud of their famous handmade Zagori ‘pita’, a kind of baked pastry pie with cheese. It is delicious!

Our walks on well-maintained routes through the mountains and villages were absolutely magical. If you don’t go in high summer, there are glorious carpets of alpine flowers: jonquil, wild lilies, orchids and anemones. The scent of aromatic Greek herbs, for me the very aroma of Greece: of sage, rosemary, marjoram and salvia. Even in autumn there is the famous Greek ‘second spring’ when the flowers reappear for a brief burst and the rocky hillsides are covered in cyclamen and poppies. There are old cobbled ‘kalderimis’ - the ancient donkey paths which link the villages. They pass arched stone bridges over clear streams, and through tiny cobbled lanes among old stone houses in the villages. Particular highlights were the spectacular Vikos Gorge and a gentler trail to the beautiful clear calm waters of the Drakolimni Lake.

We loved relaxing in the spa and swimming pool at the end of a long outdoor day, and a massage in the spa really helped to ease tired muscles and make us feel ready for the next day’s explorations. Our discovery of a whole hidden Greek world around the Aristi Mountain Resort was a real delight, and one we will be sure to revisit.