Hôtel The Gray ★★★★★

Milan is a city on a rather impressive scale. It is the second largest city in Italy, and the fifth in the EU. It is home to the fifth largest cathedral in the world, and skyscrapers which soar into the heavens from the business district, Italy’s main economic hub, while the mighty Alps sit imposingly in the background. Every week, eighty thousand people pack out the other ‘cathedral’, the San Siro football stadium, while the biannual fashion week brings in swarms of fashionistas to make the busy streets even more crowded than usual. What a relief it is then, to find a hotel of a slightly more sensible size…

The Gray is a small, cosy and intimate establishment – in fact it belongs to the prestigious Small Luxury Hotels group – with just 21 beautifully designed bedrooms. From the moment you enter, you can sense the friendly and personal atmosphere that this brings, as well as an air of quiet class punctuated by the odd splash of quirky designer flair. For example, you leave the bustling streets behind you to enter a calm lobby, with atmospheric lighting, simple but effective modern décor, straight lines and a modest black and white colour scheme. Oh, and a loud, hot pink and fuchsia seat swinging from the ceiling.

One warm welcome later, you are directed towards your bedroom. Each is unique, but all maintain the same character as the fabulous lobby: muted modern design with enough striking details to make everything feel unmistakably glamorous. Animal prints, funky patterns, ebony and ivory, silks, leather and dark woods create an exotic ambience. Meanwhile, every room has its streak of individuality – some may have beds hanging from the ceiling by polished chrome poles, others have elaborately conceived headboards, and you may even find a fantastical, dream-like staircase to nowhere. The facilities are fit for any of the divas who descend on Milan for fashion week, with luxuriously equipped bathrooms, sumptuously comfortable bedding and all the latest mod cons.

When it comes to getting out to discover the city, a sort of ‘butterfly effect’ will determine which side of Milan you actually see, with the seemingly insignificant decision between turning left or right out of the front door potentially changing the entire day. Take a right and you will discover the Milan of Prada and Dolce & Gabbana, instantly finding yourself under the enormous dome of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, one of the world’s oldest and grandest shopping centres. Wandering in and out of luxury boutiques and big designer stores such as Gucci, Louis Vuitton and many others will set the tone for a day of window shopping and modern glitz.

Take a left, however, and you are more likely to become acquainted with the Milan of Carvaggio and Da Vinci, reaching the dazzling Duomo in a matter of seconds. You can admire the stunning façade of this gothic masterpiece before entering to marvel at the impressive interior, and eventually finding yourself gazing at the intricately carved statues and panoramic views on the incredible rooftop. Your cultural curiosity stimulated, you can move on to feel the spirits of Verdi, Pavarotti and co at the magnificent La Scala opera house, see Da Vinci’s ‘Last Supper’ at the Santa Maria delle Grazie church, and wander through various ancient houses, gardens, galleries and museums.

Either way, you can be sure that the day will end with some upmarket glamour back at The Gray. Start the evening with a cocktail amid the exclusive elegance of the bar or, better yet, head outside to make the most of the brilliant terrace. With its eye-catching blend of colours and its typically stylish furnishings, this is a chic and intimate space to kick off the night in true VIP style.

Difficult as it is to tear yourself away, it is well worth making the effort to move on to the ‘Le Noir’ restaurant. Here, everything is dominated (as the name suggests) by moody shades of black, with just enough bold details such as zebra print upholstery or cutlery hanging from the ceiling to keep it all interesting. Though all this may have you entering feeling like one of Milan fashion week’s super-skinny models, that will soon change once you have sampled plenty of Le Noir’s irresistible, classic Italian cuisine. Fortunately, by the time you awake in the fashionable surroundings of your bedroom the next morning, you will be feeling like a superstar again, and all ready to head back out and mix with Milan’s beautiful people.