Chateau de Mercues ★★★★

On arrival we were warmly welcomed by the current owner and son of Georges Vigouroux, the inspiration of the château’s rebirth as a first class hotel and winery. He told us about his father’s dream of renovating the old buildings and creating a winery in the cellars capable of supporting a huge increase in production of the renowned Cahors “black wine”, reputed to fight heart disease and to be the healthiest wine in the world. That was back in the 80s, and since then his ambitions have been fully realised. The public rooms have been designed to offer elegance and comfort without stifling their deep historic resonance. The bedrooms and suites, however, are furnished individually, reflecting various traditional and avant-garde styles. The most striking rooms are the Bishop Room and the Tower, the latter boasting a unique roof which slides back to reveal the turret above.

There are two restaurants, the main one offering an unequalled gastronomic experience in a formal setting and the more relaxed brasserie with outdoor dining on the terrace and outstanding views. Both menus exemplify the richness of the local Quercy terroir, with lamb, duck, goose and truffles featuring in innovative dishes created by the award-winning chef. And, unsurprisingly, there is no shortage of wine choices, starting with those from the Château itself and extending to other great wines of the region and beyond.

On our first morning, still replete from our dinner the night before, we explored the beautiful grounds of the Château in search of activities to justify another culinary experience. Opportunities were abundant, from swimming to tennis, walking or jogging on 4km of dedicated trails. Less strenuous options included spa treatments, wine-tasting and cooking lessons.

It was a couple of days before we felt the need to venture further afield. First we visited the town of Cahors to view the Pont Valentré (14th century fortified “devil’s” bridge) and roman ruins. Then we drove for 20 minutes east of Cahors to Saint-Cirq-Lapopie, a 13th century village perched on the edge of a cliff, popular with visitors for its artisans’ workshops yet still relatively unspoiled. From there it was a short hop to the Grotte du Pech-Merle, famed for its prehistoric cave pictures.