Le Brittany & Spa ★★★★

Perched on the rocks just a few metres from the port in Roscoff, and with a stunning view of the Isle of Batz, sits Le Brittany & Spa. This old 17th century merchant’s house was rebuilt stone by stone on the Sainte-Barbe peninsula in the Bay of Morlaix by the Chapalain family in 1974 and boasts a Michelin-starred restaurant and spa. The town of Roscoff itself is a jewel of the salty Breton coast. Once associated with smuggling, it’s now more associated with seafood and crepes, beaches of powder-fine white sand and emerald waters. The once profitable shipping and smuggling funded the construction of many fine 16th and 17th century houses that still line the winding cobbled streets today, with authentic fishermen’s houses lying hidden behind vast hydrangeas on the steep cliffs. After a delicious breakfast, which you can enjoy in the restaurant or in the comfort of your room, head into the town to get your bearings. There’s a delightful Discovery walking tour in the town with 24 information panels pointing out the main areas of interest, like the 16th century Gothic church NotreDame de Croatz Batz, whose bell is shaped like a pretty cake. Roscoff was also the origin of the stereotypical French onion-seller on a bicycle; farmers would depart from the town to cross the channel to sell pink onions door-to-door. La Maison des Johnnies et de L’Oignon Rose tells the full story. Or simply stroll down to the quaint harbour or one of the quiet beaches and enjoy the windswept views of the rugged coastline and the Isle of Batz.

When the time comes to leave the beach, the hotel is particularly cosy. The 23 bedrooms are elegant, stylish light-filled refuges. Some of the Exclusive rooms have a private south-facing terrace. All are furnished with a flat screen TV with satellite channels, Wi-Fi, desk, safe, hairdryer and kettle so you can warm up with a hot brew. The bathroom has a bath and complementary toiletries. The hotel’s bar is a lovely place to relax; it’s cosy and quaint with old wooden beams on the ceiling and a comforting fireplace. There’s also a terrace which is the perfect place to enjoy cocktails and canapés and admire the beautiful and constantly changing seascape, or take in a stunning sunset.

If you need to shelter from the weather, or just fancy some indulgence then The Mers & Merveilles spa makes the most of the sea’s gentler side and its therapeutic properties. The highly-qualified team offer a whole range of Tal’ion treatments, appropriate for the area as Thal’ion laboratories select and gather their seaweed from le Mer d’Iroise, a UNESCO world biosphere reserve just 30km from Roscoff. The spa has two large massage rooms, one sea-water therapy treatment room, a Turkish bath, relaxation area and there’s even an indoor pool with a wave machine.

The sea air certainly helps sharpen the appetite. Chef Loic le Bail is Breton born and bred, and cooks seafood as though he has salt water coursing through his veins. The hotel is committed to sustainable development and the chef collects seasonal produce from local suppliers. There’s line-caught sea-bass and scallops from the bay of Morlaix, new potatoes from the Isle of Batz, and of course the famous local pink onions. All this fresh produce is turned into works of art with skill that has won him a Michelin star. The Yachtsman restaurant itself is a lovely setting with stone walls, arched French doors draped in white cloth looking seaward, and high beamed ceilings with subtle chandeliers. Just as Roscoff and the Brittany coast owes its history and rugged charm to the sea, so the hotel pays homage to its influence with elegance and savoir-faire.