Ta'Cenc Hotel & Spa ★★★★★

As the inhabitants of Gozo will tell you, it is on their island that the nymph Calypso seduced Ulysses and kept him prisoner for seven long years. But, when I step off the ferry and catch my first glimpse of the magnificent wild scenery and crystal clear waters, I am sure that Ulysses did not have to resist for long.

Arriving at Ta ‘Cenc, I am surprised by the charm and simplicity of the place; the architecture of the main building, which combines stone, wood and glass, blends harmoniously with the shimmering colours of the ornate garden surroundings. The 83 guest rooms are housed in picturesque stone bungalows that form a small village flecked with lush plants – bougainvillea, lemon, and jasmine burst with colour and fresh fragrance. The serenity of Ta ‘Cenc is almost palpable, drawing hazy inspiration from the luxurious landscapes and languishing ocean.

My room boasts a beautiful private terrace, bound by a dry stone wall and offering views over the vibrant garden. It is spacious and light, decorated with modern furniture without the frills, and the walls are hung with pretty watercolours depicting natural scenes from Gozo. This goes hand in hand with the temporary art exhibits that line the lounges, showcasing the work of local artists. Outside, two pools tinkle away under the sun and the tennis courts sit waiting for the more active traveller. For the less active, the hotel spa is the perfect place to unwind and rejuvenate.

Whilst walking through the park, I see vestiges of the past pop up before me, like the temple of Borg tal-Mramma that dates back to the Neolithic period, whilst the abundant views filled with wild cliffs and lush scrubland look out across Malta’s smattering of islands.

The hotel restaurant, open for breakfast and dinner, is an intimate affair with a charming shaded patio overlook by a 350 year old carob tree. Buffet breakfasts and delicious Mediterranean meals are eaten amongst the chic décor, characterised by white-clothed tables and braided chairs. At lunch time, the terrace pergola provides a secret slice of shade where visitors can tuck into grilled meat and fish whilst revelling in the amazing views.

Gozo is full of tiny pockets of inspiration, from the small, traditional villages lined with postcard sellers and trinket shops to the paradise beaches. On one day, the hotel shuttle took me to Kantra creek, an exquisite rocky beach set on shimmering waters. As well as relaxing under the Maltese sun, it is the perfect place to explore Gozo’s underwater world, gliding through the colourful array of sea creatures and plant life.

Despite Gozo’s small dimensions, it is not lacking in things to do; the citadel and the warm streets of the capital, Victoria, provide a maze of undiscovered shops, cafes, and restaurants, whilst the Archaeological Museum and the popular Folklore Museum delve into the island’s rich and fascinating past. At night the capital comes alive, with families pouring out onto the streets and generations joining together in a festive hubbub.

Gozo has many different sides; nature, history, and relaxing charm, to name just a few, and the Hotel Ta ‘Cenc & Spa is a welcoming point to start exploring it all from. Even so, I am sure seven years would not be long enough to discover every secret.