I Calanchi Country Hôtel & Resort ★★★★

Le Marche really is a hidden treasure of Italy and perhaps its absence from the main tourist trail is what keeps it so lovely. So let’s not tell anyone else! For the few who are lucky and adventurous enough to venture over the Apennines into Italy’s shapely calf, they will find cliff-backed bays along the Adriatic coast, historic hill towns and the remote ranges of Monti Sibillini. For us, as we drove down from Ancona, the coastal route was wonderful, but it was the beauty of the inland countryside that really struck us when we turned inland. Olive groves, vineyards, lush green rolling hills and mist-filled high valleys surrounded our journey.

When we reached I Calanchi, itself set on a hillside amongst vineyards and olives, it felt like a homecoming and the feeling was amplified by the warm welcome we received. The hotel and its buildings result from the renovation of an old agricultural estate and you can see that it has been done with love and respect for the countryside, its people and traditions. In front of the main building is a pool surrounded by a very large Italian-tiled terrace. There are pretty thatched sunshades and sunbeds from which you can gaze over the hills stretching to the distant high peaks. In the evenings, the terrace becomes an extension of the restaurant, with the pink walls of the house reflecting their colourful glow on to the tables. Flowers tumble from window boxes, potted plants add their colour to the scene and olives cast a welcome cool shade.

Our Superior Room on the first floor was spacious and elegant. There were wonderful views over the surrounding hills. A parquet floor, top-quality furniture and fabrics made it feel cared for and welcoming. Everything was spotlessly clean, and air conditioning, Wi-Fi , mini bar and safe gave us all modern comforts. 

But it is the restaurant, no ordinary hotel restaurant, that is the pride and joy of this establishment. Indoors in a country-style oak-beamed dining room or outside on the terrace with candle-lit tables, its reputation reaches throughout the local area. Locals and tourists as well as hotel residents beat a path to the door here. La Piazzetta is a true gourmet restaurant, where they offer the traditional cuisine of Marche. Salami on a cutting board, traditional olive all’ascolana, truffle tagliolini pasta, crunchy chocolate parfait were a few of the highlights we sampled, all accompanied by friendly and informative advice about the regional wines. Our first discussion with the wine waiter led to our arranging a tour of some local vineyards and, of course, making some judicious purchases.

We were here to explore Le Marche, and did a little, but the hotel made such lovely surroundings, and the swimming pool, solarium and wellness centre took so much of my relaxation time, that we didn’t feel the need to leave too much! We will need to return to I Calanchi Country Hotel to do the region full justice sometime soon. But we’ll try not to tell anyone!