L'Aubergade - Michel Trama ★★★★★

This delightful cream stone mansion with rows of arched windows once belonged to Raymond VII, Count of Toulouse. Interior designer Jacques Garcia has paid tribute to this heritage with a luxurious, theatrical flair. Velvet and silk drapes, sofas with feet resembling lion’s paws and a majestic oak staircase are just some of the touches that transport you back in time into an 18th century Baroque mansion. The stunning courtyard, terrace and pool – in which it would almost seem sacrilege to dip a toe and cause a ripple – complete the picture. Chef Michel Trama was a champion diver and student of decorative arts at the Atelier d’Ingres in Montparnasse before he met his wife Maryse. Since then, cooking has become his passion and driven him to win the Best Chef of the Year award among others.

The hotel, a member of Relais & Chateau, has 10 rooms and suites. Our room was a veritable boudoir in tones of vanilla, tangerine and plum. Silk curtains and drapes around the four-poster bed added a luxurious touch and the lampshades made of pleated ivory silk show that no detail is overlooked. Swing doors lead you into the well-thought-out bathroom complete with Zimbabwean granite. The rooms offer views of the surrounding countryside, while the suites, which are Baroque and bold, have comfort as well as views onto the pool. If you happen to tire of the views or of exploring the intricate luxury of your room – which is unlikely – then you can simply flick on the flat screen TV and enjoy a cold drink from the minibar.

If the Michel Trama ***** Relais & Chateau hotel wasn’t here, there would still be every reason to visit this quiet corner of Lot & Garonne. This piece of picture-postcard France is off the beaten track, which means you have the rolling countryside, quiet lanes and fields full of sunflowers pretty much to yourself – apart from the locals of course. Explore the medieval walled city of Puymirol, the oldest of the 13th century Bastide towns in the department. It is a collection of arched medieval buildings perched atop a rocky spur. Visit the fortified village of Auvillars close by. One of Les Plus Beaux Villages de France, it has stunning views over the surrounding countryside. Somewhere down there in the gently undulating fields are orchards full of plum trees used to make pruneaux d’Agen, a local speciality. While we’re on the subject of specialties, if you are a gastronome then you can’t pass up the chance of a cooking class from Michel and his team in the Atelier des Sens.

With the sumptuous surroundings, the stage is set for the star of the show: the food. You can enjoy a decadent breakfast amidst the silken luxury of your room, or by the pool in finer weather. Feast on eggs, viennoiserie, coffee and fresh fruit juice. Michel and his son have recently opened the Auberge de la Poule d’Or, a country inn, a simple and elegant setting for generous local food. In the evening, when the lights around the pool transform the courtyard into a fairytale setting, it’s time to head into the cosy dining room and pull up a chair near the stone fireplace. Sample some of Michel Trama’s classic dishes, like the lobster lasagne, or the foie gras hamburger with porcini mushrooms. For desert you have to try the double Corona Trama with chocolate and tobacco leaf. After that, all that’s left to do is to return to your boudoir and pull the silk drapes over a stunning end to Act One.