Borgo Storico Seghetti Panichi ★★★★

“You may have the universe if I may have Italy” said one of Italy's favourite composers, Verdi. I don't think it's a compromise only those Italian-born would make. My husband and I felt a little smug heading over the border of Tuscany to the neighbouring Le Marche, knowing it was a boundary many of our fellow tourists would never cross. Lucky us, we had heard whisper of a region with medieval hill towns and scenery to rival its world-famous neighbour, but with a fraction of the number of tourists. Stretching out to the Adriatic Sea, kissing it at white pebble shorelines and cliff-edged bays, Le Marche is rich in history. Although relatively obscure overseas, it is beloved in the Italian psyche. Close to its capital, Ascoli Piceno, perched on a hill overlooking the valley of the River Tronto, is the Italian equivalent of a stately home. Home to the Panichi family for 150 years, and where they still reside, Borgo Storico Seghetti Panichi **** now shares its refined beauty with the outside world.

The Borgo enfolds you into its tranquillity on approach. The honey-stone walls, which have seen centuries come and go, stand serenely, surrounded by palm trees and decorative ponds. The vantage point of the property explains why its origins date back to the 12th century, when it was a fortified outpost. Its eleven suites are divided between two buildings. The Relais Villa was a fortress before becoming an 18th-century home. It's hugged protectively by the castle wall and surrounded by botanical gardens considered one of Italy's Grandi Giardini (Grand Gardens). The rooms are comfortable and luxurious, each one offering something unique and special. They are expertly designed and contain one-off items collected over the centuries from every corner of the world.

The restored 16th-century Residenza San Pancrazio houses six apartment-style suites, each with a private entrance, ideal for larger groups. Having no excuse for an extra bedroom, we chose one of the smaller suites, Sibilla, named after a local legend involving a good witch and brave knights. It was very spacious, with a large lounge, kitchen and bedroom. We could pretend it was our home and we were aristocratic Italians of yesteryear. I loved the calming hues of primrose yellow and magnolia. With a travertine fireplace, wooden beamed ceilings, antique chestnut furniture and marble bathroom, it was elegant and dignified, combining nature, history and art. It was situated close to the swimming pool and had beautiful views of the garden and Sibillini Mountains.

The rest of the estate comprises a family chapel dedicated to St. Pancras, a coffee shop, restaurant, book and boutique store, gym, and sauna. It's one of the hotel's charms that it provides so many facilities yet retains a feeling of intimacy and warmth. Food served at the hotel restaurant is as locally sourced as you can get – straight from their garden. It's also as delicious as you can get!

Borgo Storico Seghetti Panichi left a tangible sweet imprint on us. We returned home thoroughly refreshed, reminded that despite life's tendency to predictability, you never know what's around the corner.