Boscolo Hotel ★★★★★

If, like me, you find central Europe to be a mysterious land where eastern spices meet western traditions, Budapest may conjure up images of the mythical Orient, a glorious past, fierce Magyar soldiers, old vampires, forgotten castles, dark forests or maybe all of the above. Well, aside from the forests (and the fierce soldiers), the Hungarian capital will not disappoint. Despite its historical ups and downs, the city has preserved its rich architectural heritage and has undergone major renovation work over the past decade to ensure its former glory is not lost. The hotel Boscolo is without doubt one of the success stories of this renewal following its renovation in 2001.

Many people do not know that Budapest is actually comprised of two cities – Buda and Pest – and while Buda is the most popular spot for tourists, the future of Pest looks bright. Locals and foreigners are beginning to rediscover its treasures and new life is pumping through its hilly streets. The Boscolo hotel has been an important part of this regeneration process. Located between the Dohány Street Synagogue (the biggest in Europe) and the Budapest-Keleti Railway Terminal in the fashionable neighbourhood of Erzsébetváros, the hotel is only short walk from the Danube River that separates the two (united) cities. The white façade resembles an eclectic palace, complete with columns and baroque statues. The reception space is most impressive and features a palatial staircase that leads up to the breath-taking atrium. Four stories high and impeccably white, the space has arches that climb up to the ceiling and daylight flooding in from above, a truly unique space. As starting point for the quest to discover the grand history of grand Budapest, you can’t do much better.

The history of this space only compliments the beauty! In the early 20th century, the New York Café, located on the first floor of the hotel, was one of the addresses on the Hungarian literary and poetry scene. Numerous writers and artists gathered here to discuss their work and exchange ideas. The space has been perfectly restored to cater for modern tastes while showcasing the old-world décor. Legend has it that the Hungarian writer, Ferenc Molnár, threw the keys to the Café into the Danube to ensure that it would never close! His efforts were however in vain as a Soviet tank hit the café in 1956 and left it to ruin, that is, until the Boscolo Hotels took on the restoration project!

On my quest to explore the mythical city, I didn’t need to walk far from this renewed palace to find some of Budapest’s most famous sights. The Andrássy Avenue is just a few minutes from the Boscolo Hotel and links Heroes’ Square to the Opera, two of the city’s most famous landmarks. St. Stephen's Basilica is also on this strip and worth visiting, if only to pay homage to its difficult construction that took over 54 years and was the work of 3 successive architects. The interiors are lavish, grandiose and very unique. This is also the perfect spot to cross over the Danube, the majestic Széchenyi chain bridge that will take you to Buda and perhaps the city’s most emblematic landmark of the city - Buda castle. From here you can take in the best views over the neo-gothic Parliament and the entire ‘pearl of the Danube’.

After wandering the mysterious streets of the capital and taking in the architecture, my sumptuous room in the Boscolo was a welcome site: a cocktail of ancient and contemporary furniture, modern comfort with the beauty of the past. The marble bathroom was a subtle reminder that no visit to Budapest is complete without a visit to one (or more) of the numerous thermal spas dotted across the city. Locals go to play chess for a couple of hours or discuss the latest news in the capital while the healing water cures them of ailments… and who I am to argue? If you prefer to enjoy thermal waters without the crowds, the hotel has its very own spa, a place where physical and mental well-being is guaranteed by a team of experienced massage staff. As you would expect from the Boscolo Hotel, the architecture of the spa is suitably impressive!

One of the most beautiful cities in Europe, Budapest has (so far) managed to avoid the tourist hoards, found in the likes of Paris, Rome, or Barcelona, but for how much longer? An ancient city with lots of charm, a rich and dramatic history, unique architecture, accessible prices and one of the world’s most beautiful cafés in a luxury hotel, I wouldn’t wait too long to discover the ever-transforming pearl of the Danube.