Van Gogh, Cézanne, Monet, Matisse – just some of the artists who found themselves inspired by the unique beauty of this part of France. It is easy to see why when you stroll through silent vineyards and around fields of sunflowers all lined up and facing the sun like brightly coloured toy soldiers, when you gaze up at the unimaginable scale of the Pont du Gard aqueduct, or feel thousands of years of history floating around you in the ancient Roman towns nearby. It is enough to make you feel like you are wandering through a painting, and it certainly gets the creative juices flowing.
The Chateau d’Arpaillargues is famous for other fine arts, however. Firstly, its literary heritage is fascinating, having inspired many great authors over the years; the immoral Marquise de Merteuil, the fiendish lead character of ‘Dangerous Liaisons’, is said to have been based on a previous owner of the chateau, after original author Pierre Choderlos de Laclos visited way back in the 18th century. Then there is the art of gastronomy, in which every Frenchman claims to be an expert but few have mastered quite like chef Cyril Bonfils. Relaxation is even turned into a fine art here, with lazy afternoons to be spent by the idyllic pool, and so many quiet corners hidden away in luxuriant gardens and secret courtyards. Most of all though, you will be struck by that legendary art de vivre, executed so exquisitely that you might never want to leave.
It is easy to picture the chateau which inspired writers as far back as the 18th century, because in short, little has changed. The golden limestone walls are as they were, with the added intrigue of having resisted the wear and tear of almost 300 years of history, and ivy creeping around the windows adds to that clichéd ‘rustic charm’. Bedrooms – with antique furnishings and some traditional mosaic tiling in the bathrooms – display few traces of 21st century living, apart from the occasional glimpses of modern luxury, such as bespoke toiletries, flat screen TVs and air conditioning. Meanwhile the whole setting maintains a timeless character, with the chateau and secluded gardens set in the sleepy village of Arpaillargues, where the odd Citroen or moped trundling by do little to dispel the atmosphere of traditional village life.
Of course, if you crave more excitement then there is plenty going on beyond the village. A short drive, easy cycle or even a pleasant and scenic walk will lead you into the town of Uzès, one of several ancient Roman towns in the area and home to one of the best markets in the South of France. This is also the source of the Roman aqueduct which leads all the way down to the Gardon River and the Pont du Gard, the gigantic bridge whose scale simply beggars belief. Stretching over an utterly picturesque, rocky canyon which meanders its way through the countryside, it has been striking awe into visitors for thousands of years, and is now one of France’s most loved tourist attractions. Following the aqueduct on the other side of the river, it leads all the way to Nimes, famed for its magnificent Roman amphitheatre and traditional Provencal spirit.
If, on the other hand, you were actually rather liking the sound of staying put in your chateau and living the life of an 18th century marquis or marquise, then you will be delighted to hear that you can happily spend days on end here, doing a whole range of activities or simply doing nothing at all – or working on your latest novel like the famous writers before you. Aside from the swimming pool in the beautiful gardens, there is a tennis court, outdoor Jacuzzi and boules, as well as bikes to rent should you suddenly be caught in a surge of Provencal wanderlust.
There is, however, one thing that will make the Chateau d’Arpaillargues stick in your memory more than any of this – the superb Marie d’Agoult restaurant. One of the finest establishments around for refined regional cuisine, the artistically presented cooking here is a treat for the taste buds, a perfect harmony of all the local flavours. More than merely outstanding cooking, every meal here is also a real experience, enjoyed in the atmospherically rustic dining room or on the magical terrace. There are few things more blissful than sitting in one of the hidden corners of the sprawling ancient courtyard, taking your time to savour each work of art concocted by the chef, and sipping the delectable local wines until the starry sky begins to swirl around like a Van Gogh painting. Best of all, with your VeryChic half-board offer, you can do this time and time again!