Sextantio Albergo Diffuso ★★★★

We passed through the dramatic landscape of Abruzzo under towering green hills and past serene lakes to reach the village of Santo Stefano di Sessanio. It has been recognised as one of Italy’s prettiest villages "I Borghi Piu belli D’Italia", and you can see why. There is an ancient stone portal leading into the main square which was constructed by the Medicis and bears their coat of arms. Houses huddled together on top of the hill: terracotta roofs almost touching, some restored and some still abandoned, are linked by mossy stone-arched steps and winding cobbled alleys. Sunshine slanting through the streets and flower-filled pots complete the picture-perfection.

The hotel’s reception is in a separate building from the rooms – all of them converted village houses. The reception is adjoined by one of the two dining rooms: a refectory-style medieval hall with bare stone walls glowing in the firelight. There are candles in the alcoves, oak-beamed ceilings and original stone flags with the gentle wear of centuries on the floor. Farmhouse-style tables and simple wooden chairs await their occupants. There is a separate breakfast room too, with wooden floors and small tables and bentwood chairs. Bright azure blue dining plates make a lovely contrast with the glowing ochre of the rough stone walls.

Our room was a split-level adaptation of the whole house. Downstairs simple country furniture: a dining table and chairs and an antique chest, oak beams overhead and bare stone walls. Small windows set in the thick walls didn’t let in much light but that is part of the magical ambience; we would not have wanted it any other way. There were even soot stains in places from centuries of open fires and candle lighting. Open wooden steps led to the upstairs mezzanine bedroom. Simple and charming, with a king-size bed and open hearth with a blazing fire, even a bathtub if you wanted to bathe, country-style, in the warmth of the flames. We lay in bed that night, under blankets hand-woven in the village, in the quiet of the country air with only the occasional owl breaking the silence, mesmerised by the flickering firelight on the walls. It was truly magical. There are creature comforts too to supplement the rural simplicity of the surroundings. Under-floor heating and a lovely bathroom with modern fittings meant we were had all our modern comforts as well. No TV or phone, but there is Wi-Fi in every room!

Breakfast in the hotel was superb: locally grown produce, simple hams and cheeses, fresh fruit and Italian pastries. Dinner in the restaurant was excellent too. The whole village has been recognised by the Slow Food movement for its commitment to sustainable agriculture. The hotel is committed to sustainable local produce and everything was fresh and authentic; good local wine, friendly staff and fireside cheer in that lovely medieval atmosphere.

When you explore the village you find some great little boutiques and restaurants hidden away inside the old houses and we spent a couple of happy mornings browsing the shops and sampling the local cuisine. It was wonderful to explore the surrounding countryside and villages too. I couldn’t have been happier to have discovered this amazing region of Italy, and in particular the unique, unforgettable Sextantio Albergo Diffuso.