Vila Monte - Farm House ★★★★

I remember it vividly, struggling onto the airport shuttle bus with our cases, foggy with the lack of sleep and oppressed by the building heat of the day. It wasn’t the most auspicious start to our first trip to Portugal, or indeed our first trip anywhere! It certainly all looks very different today, from the comfort of an air-conditioned car, with the burnt umber earth rushing by the windows, broken by the sudden glimpse of the azure sea. I grasp my husband’s free hand and he squeezes mine tight. We have returned.

The ocean blue sets the tone. The hotel sits just over two miles from Faro and the crystalline water fills the horizon. Drawing up to the Vila Monte, we feel a wave of refreshment envelop us before we’re even through the door. Somewhere, there’s the sound of water and a tang of citrus reaches us on the warm breeze. Everything seems to blend in with the Algarve countryside and boho-chic spirit that surrounds it – from the whitewashed chimneys and unique architecture, to the denim dresses and traditional shoes worn by the lovely staff who come out to greet us. The recently refurbished interiors are just exquisite. They combine an eclectic mix of modern European and traditional Algarve styles and, then again, contemporary re-readings of ancient styles. The whole ensemble comes together in an intricate design without ever being too busy or flouncy.  The house is nestled amongst nine hectares of lush gardens, abundant with centuries-old olive and carob trees, aromatic plants, a vegetable garden, an orange grove and endless secret corners.

It’s time to discover our bedroom, the cocoon for our romantic escape. It is one of the hotel’s 55 resolutely modern and sophisticated rooms and suites… something special, in our case; did I mention the special anniversary? Each room has different characteristics, and our Superior Double Room is dressed in white to match the traditional exterior, adorned with emblematic touches including a pretty pot filled with bright pink flowers, traditional wicker decorations and splashes of blue in the cushions and chairs. Our spacious bathroom comes with complimentary toiletries, and the bedroom is fully equipped with a flat-screen TV, a mini-bar, free Wi-Fi and air-conditioning. The whole place is light-filled and airy, and the double doors open out onto a gorgeous private patio overlooking the manicured gardens, complete with comfy sofas, traditional furnishings and little lanterns so we can enjoy candle-lit drinks each evening.

My desire to stay and luxuriate in this plush dreamscape is only outweighed by my need to discover what more the Vila Monte has in store. Starting perhaps with the immense and fragrant gardens, interspersed with ornamental pools crossed with wooden bridges, water features and three swimming pools. I picture us curling up in a shady corner, reading quietly together or simply breathing in the heavily scented air, enjoying our shared silence as we often have over the years.

I’ll just stand here a moment longer, however, and marvel at how the hotel’s vivid interiors – indigo blue, violet, mint green, natural orange and pomegranate red – perfectly mirroring the kaleidoscope outside, the orange or turquoise render, the blue of the pools, the powerful violet of the bougainvillea and the striking greens of the gardens…