Koh I Nor ★★★★★

I defy anyone not to be impressed by their first sight of this hotel in Val Thorens. The architecture takes advantage of the luminous mountain light by refracting it through an imposing diamond-like glass structure in the centre, which is offset beautifully by the rest of the exterior’s wood, glass, and stone-covered arches. There are 63 rooms and suites, 35 apartments, 2 restaurants, 2 pools, a lounge bar and a spa.

The rooms, designed by Patriarche & Co – a French architecture & design firm - are the epitome of charm and refinement, effortlessly merging the cosiness of a log cabin with the comforts of modern design. Tactile materials like wood, stone, fur and leather create a welcoming atmosphere while luxury bedding and designer lighting give a touch of stylish refinement.  Our room was blessed with a balcony offering stunning views of the Three Valleys and the snow covered summit of Val Thorens. As you would expect from a five-star establishment, you have absolutely everything you could want: Wi-Fi, telephone, DVD player and TV with satellite channels, although with views like this I don’t think you’ll need them.

Even better than enjoying the view, you can ski directly to and from the hotel entrance. There are 600km of pistes of Les Trois Vallees, one of the largest ski areas in the world. Val Thorens is one of the oldest ski resorts in France, at the head of the Belleville Valley. Surrounded by a horseshoe of peaks, weather and landscape can combine to make it both sublime and savage. The resort has a cool, sporty vibe and you can do everything from tobogganing and mountain-biking on snow, to paragliding and ice-diving. So whether you are a black-run adrenaline junkie seeking new thrills or a beginner like me, you won’t run out of options.

After a long day on the slopes, it was a treat to go to the Spa Valmont. Stretch out in one of its two heated swimming pools, or let the soothing heat of the sauna and Turkish bath loosen knotted muscles. You can even treat yourself to a massage or enjoy a more stimulating session under the experience showers, salt wall, or ice fountain. There is also a Jacuzzi, a relaxation area and a sun lounge... so you might even be tempted to leave the slopes early just so that you can try out everything.

The danger is that you may not even make it to the Spa if you stop by the bar en route. It’s lively in the evening, but a haven of calm in the afternoon. Sink into one of the richly-coloured cosy armchairs and let yourself be hypnotised by the flickering flames of the sleek fireplace, or cocoon yourself in one of the suspended egg chairs. The bar opens out onto a wooden terrace with wonderful views. Now that you’re here it would be remiss not to have a cocktail or sip a single malt and enjoy the panorama.

It should come as no surprise that the hotel has two of the best restaurants in the whole resort. The luxury Brasserie is open during the day; it feels cosy yet refined, lined with wood and decorated in warm colours with light flooding in through the large picture windows. The international restaurant is open only in the evening and offers a five-course set menu comprising good quality ingredients brought to life with aromatic and mountain herbs and spices. Under the watchful eye of Chef Yoanne Conte, the team strives for food that echoes the spirit of this gem of a hotel: luxurious, but not ostentatious.