Villa Navarre ★★★★★

We arrived at the hotel first, and were happy to see the grand building glowing in the afternoon sun, amidst the greenery of the mature parkland. Even better than the pictures! After a warm welcome, we were shown to our room. There are 30 rooms in total, some in the Villa itself and some in the Pavilion, converted from former stables, with views over the park. The two sections are linked by a glass passage. Our room was in the Villa. It was an elegant, almost monochrome symphony in black and white with classic parquet flooring. French doors led to a little balcony and that fabulous view. I knew that was where I was going to take my breakfast coffee! A huge soft bed promised a luxurious night’s sleep after our travels, and the bathroom, also huge, had a charming freestanding bath, lovely décor and a set of robes and slippers awaiting us. Later, when my daughter and son-in-law arrived, we saw their room in the Pavilion. Not quite as luxurious as ours, but still very comfortable, with views over the park, and all the essential modern conveniences of flat-screen television with satellite channels, free Wi-Fi, and air conditioning.

It was too early for dinner, and so, after our respective husbands set off for a stroll around the park, my daughter and I decided on a spa visit, just for fun for me, and to soothe away the stresses of her long journey for her. Gentle lighting and a palette of blues and turquoise soothed us the moment we arrived, as did the multi-jets shower. A slow stretch in the heated swimming pool, followed by a tension-busting massage, left us feeling invigorated and refreshed. We were prepared to get ready for dinner!

The dining room is fresh and inviting, but as it was a mild evening, we opted for dinner on the terrace, with the evening birdsong and greenery mellow in the evening light all around us. We were expecting good things as we had heard of the Chef, Patrick Brossé, who, after a career in some of the prestigious kitchens of Paris, returned to his native Pau. He brought with him a sophisticated and modern touch to the local cuisine. The menu is not extensive, which we all thought a very good sign. Our expectations fully matched! I had lobster and my husband the fish St Pierre, both of which were cooked to perfection. The wine was perfect too, and the service absolutely first class. We all agreed it was an excellent start to our family get-together, and retired, relaxed and happy, to a well-deserved rest.

The next day my son-in-law was itching to go exploring in the Pyrenees, and particularly try his hand (and feet, and anything else available) at canyoning, where the idea apparently is to follow a river downstream in any way possible - sliding, swimming, jumping, climbing and abseiling. Not for me, I will leave that to the young ones! Top of the agenda for me and my husband was exploring the historic city of Pau. The city centre is only a 15-minute walk away. Our first stop had to be the castle at the centre: Château de Pau, where King Henry IV of France and Navarre was born in 1553. There are lots of paintings, period furniture, and wonderful tapestries. There is also an excellent English hand-out with lots of information. We had a leisurely lunch while enjoying planning our ride on the Pau Funicular, which runs between the Boulevard des Pyrénées and the Château. 

There is much more to see, and it’s lovely to know that at the end of more days mountain walking or city exploring, we have the luxury and comfort of the Villa Navarre to come back to.