Hostalet de Begur - Adults Only

Teeming with visitors in the summertime, who put up with tacky low-rise accommodation in towns that have gone into touristic overload, the Costa Brava has developed a somewhat negative reputation for holiday-makers who are looking for something a little off the beaten track. Before you write off the region as a possible destination, think about why all those people started coming here in the first place. Costa, as you probably know, means ‘coast’, while Brava means ‘rugged’ or ‘wild’. The extraordinary scenery, mild climate, and long, sandy beaches are what make the region so attractive and contributed to the development of the booming tourism industry.

Fortunately, the amazing coastline has remained unscathed and some treasures remain untouched by the surrounding expansion. The town of Begur is one of those treasures. Perched high on a hilltop, yet hidden from the sea, it is unquestionably one of the Costa Brava’s prettiest medieval towns. The Hostalet de Begur sits on the outskirts of town, just a short walk down narrow, cobbled streets from the quaint little shops and cafés of the town centre. If you head towards the coast, you’ll soon arrive at some of Costa Brava’s most beautiful sandy coves and beaches, but you’ll have to find those for yourself, I’m keeping my favourite romantic spots a secret for now.

While the hotel itself is a recent construction, it was built around one of the seven watch towers that protected Begur in the 16th and 17th centuries. The beautifully-restored outer wall of the turret can be admired in one of the deluxe bedrooms, so you might want to ask for the room called ‘Carmen’. The rooms are all immaculate! The ivory whites and soft taupes of the pure, minimalist decoration calm the soul. Each room is lyrically named after a famous opera: Carmen, Aïda, Manon, Othello, MacBeth, Tosca, and Werther.

Where operas often end on a tragic, heart-rending note, your stay will surely have a happy ending, free from melodrama and strife. With only seven double rooms to see to, owners Lluis and his wife Eva can spend time seeing to their guests’ needs. And they do so tirelessly – no demand is too great. Eva once even ironed my shirt for me when I was running late for a wedding. Incidentally, that was during my first stay here and just one of the many details that have kept me coming back since the hotel opened.

If you’re really looking to escape, I’m afraid they do have Wi-Fi and satellite television here, so you won’t be completely cut off from the world. You may also be forced to seek nourishment in Begur, as the hotel does not have a restaurant, but I’ll give you a couple of my favourite addresses in the town and you can always fill up on the wonderfully generous breakfast served in the dining room or your room. So now you know all about my secret getaway, it’s up to you to go there yourself and discover some secrets of your own. I hope you’ll share them with me when you get back!