Hotel Mamaison Riverside ★★★★★

Dynamic as the river it clings to, Prague has been notable for its status as a religious and cultural centre, burgeoning nightlife, and more recently, its artistic revival. Smichov, the hotel’s surrounding neighbourhood, has experienced an avant-garde urban revival, featuring the futurist architecture of Frank Gehry’s Dancing House. The aptly-named Riverside Hotel occupies a splendid Art Nouveau palace by the Jiráskův Bridge, a perfect location for exploring all that Prague has to offer.

A warm and friendly atmosphere extends throughout the hotel. From the handsomely liveried doormen to the discreet restaurant staff: service at the Riverside is polite and professional. Even generous picnic baskets may be request, to enjoy in one of Prague’s many green garden squares. A vast array of Czech and continental breakfast foods kept us sated throughout the day, and the concierge was hugely helpful in planning our itinerary.

Behind the hotel’s glamorous façade, the interior design is stylish, contemporary and sophisticated. Our spacious room offered every contemporary convenience while retaining the classic characteristics of a five-star hotel, and we welcomed the fluffy dressing gowns and traditional turn-down service. I was transfixed by the breathtaking views of the river from our riverside room, while other rooms enjoy a view of the city. Romanesque basilicas, Gothic turrets and brutalist Soviet-era tower blocks are all accommodated in the landscape.

In the evening, the deep armchairs of the lounge bar proved an ideal place to enjoy a warming cocktail. Moving from the bar to the restaurant, the interior design cools yet retains a refined elegance. True to its name, the Mamaison Restaurant offers homely, authentic Czech cooking. We sampled some traditional Bohemian dishes alongside international staples, served by characteristically charming staff.

After polishing off the last crumbs of our medovnik, a rich and nutty honey cake typical of Prague, we headed out for a stroll along to the Charles Bridge with its elevated baroque bronzes that proudly survey their city. As an accomplished flautist finished what sounded like Mozart in the distance, the street lights illuminating the faces of the statues lining the Bridge, I realised I had entirely fallen under the spell of this bewitchingly beautiful city.