Martin's Patershof ★★★★

As the seat of the catholic primate, Mechelen has, a rich religious and historical heritage, with a famous and spectacular cathedral, eight beautiful major churches – full of works by renowned artists and plenty of baroque splendour – and various other spiritual gems. Indeed, this overabundance of pretty churches is what let to one being converted into one of the most unique and memorable hotels in the whole country!

Hidden in a slightly inauspicious residential street in the city centre, the Patershof seems like any other parish church – well, perhaps a particularly attractive one, with its red brick façade, neo-gothic architecture and intricate mosaics above the arched doorways. Yes, there are a couple of inconspicuous banners bearing the name of the prestigious Martin’s hotel group, but these are by no means what catches your gaze first.

The traditional 19th-century ecclesiastical architecture gives little away, and once you cross the threshold you find yourself awestruck by the dazzling contemporary chic style which permeates every corner, like incense swirling around a church. It is a startling contrast, yet somehow harmonious: tall stone columns stand behind futuristic velvety armchairs; a time-worn stoup hangs on the wall of a glamorous bar; colourful light streams through stained glass windows and reflects off flat screen televisions.

Our room was nestled just underneath the church’s vast vaulted ceiling, with a colourful window and elegantly carved columns forming the classical backdrop for its futuristic décor, including an eye-catching headboard which echoed the gothic arches of the windows. It was perfectly roomy for two, and fitted out with all the modern amenities you would expect from your everyday church-cum-luxury-hotel.

The most striking example of the Patershof’s melange of styles comes in the breakfast room. It is dark, atmospheric and sleek, with a moody mix of red and black – it could almost pass for a trendy wine bar were it not for the magnificent altarpiece. Set at the front of the old church, this is where the choir used to sit, and we certainly felt like singing the praises of the outstanding breakfast spread.

Tempting as it was to wander along the canals, or sit with a coffee in the Grote Markt square and admire the fairy-tale-castle-style town hall squeezed between ostentatious renaissance and gothic facades, the Patershof had left us yearning to visit the famous cathedral first of all. We marvelled at the grand interior, a treasure trove of artistic jewels including works by Van Dyck, and then the colossal tower. What breath remained after climbing up the 500 steps was taken away as we took in the stunning panoramas of the Belgian countryside, the giant orbs of Brussels’ Atomium just about visible on the horizon.