Le Grand Hôtel de la Plage ★★★★

Whether or not it’s anything more than just an old wives’ tale, I cannot be sure, but I do know that the sea air is supposed to be good for you. And who could really dispute the benefits of taking yourself somewhere far away from the office, lying out on a large expanse of soft, powdery white sand, snoozing in the sun and breathing in that legendary air? Whatever the truth of it, the seaside is an essential part of any summer holiday for me. The area around Biscarrosse is not just another coastal destination. On the border of Landes and Gironde, this part of the French Atlantic coast offers idyllic beaches, warm weather and fine cuisine, and is a Mecca for water sports enthusiasts. As soon as I arrived at Le Grand Hotel de la Plage, I noticed something about the fabled salty air around here just tasted a bit sweeter, and I knew this would be a holiday to remember.

Before explaining the delights of the hotel itself, it is worth describing its setting, which is nothing short of spectacular. This stretch of coast is, put simply, one of the most beautiful that I have ever had the pleasure of exploring. Be it thick pine forests, enormous sandy beaches or huge lakes, nature plays an extremely significant part in making this area so special. One of the most famous aspects of the dramatic landscape is undoubtedly the gargantuan Dune du Pilat, the tallest sand dune in Europe. What better place to enjoy the sea breeze, I thought to myself, and so I made the 20 minute journey up the coast to see it for myself. To my left, a dense wood stretched out as far as I could see – a sea of lush green to match the ocean of vivid blue to my right, lazily sparkling in the afternoon sun. Above, the sky was, if anything, even bluer; below, a mountain of pale-golden powder tumbled away into the trees and the water. A gentle wind licked my face, and there it was again, the sea air transporting me to paradise.

Surrounded by such staggering natural beauty, it would be unwise for Le Grand Hôtel de la Plage to attempt to be too flashy, to outshine the dazzling scenery. Simplicity is the key here. From the outside, the hotel is a white cube, with balconies and terraces jutting out and affording guests a stunning ocean view. Inside, it is equally clean, pure and elegant – subtle splashes of pastel colour do not distract from the simple and understated black and white motif. My premium bedroom was beautiful – white walls and bedding with sleek black furnishings, all luxurious, spacious and luminous. By comparison, the views from my balcony seemed to come alive even more, exploding with colour as the bright blues of the sea and sky combined with the gold of the sand, dazzling in the sunshine. A glorious sight to behold every morning, this view became even more special in the evenings, with the ocean dancing in the breath-taking colours of the sunset.

Outside, the white of the sun loungers, the furniture and canopies of the restaurant and bar are even brighter, gleaming in the sun. Palm trees heighten the atmosphere of relaxation around the alluring swimming pool, and cast shade over the bar, a trendy hangout on the beach to enjoy a refreshing cocktail and a snack during the afternoon or evening. All the outside spaces look out lustfully over the beach, which is an ever-present temptation, a soft bed of white sand on which to spend an afternoon napping, occasionally enjoying a dip in the glittering Atlantic waters.

There are, therefore, plenty of options to help you unwind at the Grand Hôtel de la Plage, but there are also plenty of activities for more active guests in this region famed for its water sports. At times, my wife and I almost resembled an Action Man and Barbie type couple, her pampering herself by the pool while I went for an exhilarating Jet Ski ride, or even just snuck in a quick round of golf. However, sometimes these roles were reversed, as I would curl my toes in the sand and watch her indulging in her passion for surfing. Then there were the things we would do together, a scenic bike trip or romantic horse ride along the beach.

This is all hungry work, and so it is ideal that the hotel is home to a superb restaurant. The bistro excites the taste buds with expertly prepared seasonal produce, all accompanied by a crisp glass of French wine and a view of the sunset from the beachside terrace. Sampling the typically excellent flavours of France and admiring the sparkling water ablaze in golden, orange and red light, it was easy to see why people flock like pilgrims to this part of the coast, and why Le Grand Hôtel has been such a famous establishment around here for so long. Like a fine wine developed in one of the region’s abundant vineyards, a hotel often gets better with age. Over the years, this hotel has developed a wealth of charm, character and tradition, and now its latest facelift has also brought it the best of 21st century style and comfort. If, like me, you spend all autumn, winter and spring dreaming of the summer and that sea air, I can scarcely imagine anywhere better.