Metropole Hotel - Spa & Wellness ★★★★★

The Metropole Hotel - Spa & Wellness has a rich history, even featured on the 16th century ‘bird’s eye map’ of the city viewable in the hotel. It has been frequented by Vivaldi, Sigmund Freud, Marcel Proust, and Thomas Mann, among others. It was completely renovated in 2008 and was the 2011 winner of the Prix Villegiature Award as Europe’s Most Charming Hotel. It was this award that attracted my attention in the first place.

When we arrived and stepped straight from our water taxi into the foyer area, the atmosphere of richness and opulence was almost overwhelming. We were surrounded by ornate antique furnishings, plush rich colours, silk and velvet cushions, brocade upholstery, and richly decorated light fittings. It was almost like stepping into a museum or period film set, except that this was ordered, peaceful, and comfortably welcoming. Most charming indeed!

There are 67 rooms in total, all of them different. Ours had intricately carved wooden bedheads, richly patterned and embossed wallpaper and decorations, extravagantly embroidered cushions, bedspreads and curtain drapery, and plush armchairs in the living room area. Everything was in wood and hues of gold and red. There was some lovely artwork, including busts, vases, and other antiquities. We had that wonderful view from the window looking over the lagoon to the island of San Giorgio Maggiore. The bathroom was not large, but had everything we needed, including a nice collection of designer toiletries along with bathrobes and slippers.

We were so taken with the ambience in the hotel that we decided to dine in the Michelin-starred restaurant for our special anniversary dinner. Here were more plush decorations, including 17th century heavily gilt-framed classical pictures, with an atmosphere of fabulous intimate warmth in rich golds and reds. Impressive wall hangings and antique furniture completed the setting, crowned by Murano glass chandeliers by Master Seguso. In a surprising contrast, the menu is of Tra’Contemporary creative cookery, with Chef Luca Veritti presenting traditional Italian recipes, served in strict classical and traditional style, alongside the same recipes prepared with creativity and modernity in fun, colourful geometric shapes. It was a memorable experience of delicious food and cheerful atmosphere.

It was a luxury to be able to step outside the door and find all the landmarks we planned to visit within easy walking distance. St. Mark’s Square was everything we expected. Although admittedly something of a tourist trap, the atmosphere, created by the grand architecture of the facades of the Doge’s Palace and the Basilica, the cloistered walkways, drifting sounds of a string quartet coming from a restaurant, and beautiful ornate street lanterns, all painted a memorable picture of Venice that will stay in our minds forever.

There seem to be galleries everywhere. We had to visit the Galleria dell ‘Academia and Peggy Guggenheim Gallery’, naturally, and they were certainly highlights, but there are many little modern art galleries as well. That is one of the charming aspects of Venice; the most enduring of high-art classical culture constantly rubbing shoulders with new emerging talents springing up everywhere. We had a lovely time exploring some of the newer galleries and eating in some of the cheerful trattorias - also seemingly everywhere - as well as more traditional restaurants. As the background to it all, we knew we had the privilege of what felt like our own private museum and gallery in the comfort of the Hotel Metropole to return to at the end of the day.