Lisbon’s many faces reflect a city that has been through a lot over the years. The mishmash of old, cracked buildings that twirl up the winding streets of Alfama are some of the only original facades that remain after the earthquake that destroyed the city in 1755. Before then, Lisbon was dotted with remnants and reminders of its rich and expansive history, spanning through Islamic rule and Moorish control until it fell under Portuguese reign. One constant throughout all of this, though, was the city’s exhibition of traditional “azulejo” tiles. In a city that was once very much whitewashed, the interesting designs added colour to even the poorest of households, and acted as a reflector for the harsh Portuguese sun.
During the Islamic and Moorish reign, the tiles took on the essence of these groups, until the present day when they add a dash of quirkiness and a pop of colour to even the dullest, crumbliest streets. It’s this dedication to visual design that I love so much about Lisbon, and it is something that the city has retained for many, many years.
It is whilst thinking about the fascinating aesthetical designs and offerings of Lisbon that I arrive in Belem, the city’s cultural quarter, where the first thing I see is the grand, intricate exterior of the Jeronimos Monastery sprawled out across the road from the harbour. Compared to the cluttered streets of Alfama and the narrow alleyways of the Bairro Alto, Belem is a vast space with lots of green, providing plenty of room to breathe. With numerous art galleries and museums, the district is a culture vulture’s dream, and boasts endless moments of learning set against typically impressive architecture.
Next to the Monastery sits the Hotel Jeronimos 8, my home for the duration of my time in Lisbon. From the outside, the design doesn’t quite compare with the ornate detailing of the nearby Monastery, but inside I’m once again blown away by the city’s attention to aesthetic quality. Where Belem is an old, historic area, the Jeronimos 8 sets a completely contrasting scene with an expressive modern décor spanning the whole building. From my room, which is large with white walls and chocolate accents, to the sleek red bar that could have travelled back in time from the future, to the comfortable enclosed terrace perfect for a peaceful afternoon drink, the hotel could easily give any of the contemporary art galleries in the area a run for their money. Just as the azulejos add a pop of colour to the muted Lisbon streets, the Jeronimos 8 is dotted with bursts of brightness against a stylish white backdrop.
But, as I continue my stay, I realise that the hotel has substance as well as the looks, just like the rest of Lisbon. The friendly staff go out of their way to ensure I’m well looked after and having a good time, and I eagerly anticipate breakfast every morning where I’m served up a delicious, traditional Pasteis de Nata – a typical taste of Lisbon. Just around the corner there’s also an entire store dedicated to Pasteis de Belem, the creamy, custard-filled pastry from the area – you’ll see the queue before you see the shop, though!
Lisbon accommodates any kind of getaway in its many differing districts, and stepping from one to the next is like stepping into a completely new world, and a new time in many cases, too. Belem is just a short tram ride from the centre of the city, where I regularly found myself wandering the steep streets of Alfama, ducking into all manner of trinket shops along the way, and enjoying a glass of wine in one of the many Fado bars in Bairro Alto. It’s a busy, bustling city that has an overwhelming amount of things to see and do, but Belem offers a retreat from the often crowded, popular areas of the city, as well as a range of cultural hotspots to enjoy? And, nestled right next to the gloriously ornate Jeronimos Monastery – a reminder of Lisbon’s dedication to the aesthetic – what better place could there be to stay than the Hotel Jeronimos 8?