Castel Clara Thalasso & Spa ★★★★

The edge of the world can be a beautiful place to be. Monet knew this as he stood on the coast of the tiny island of Belle Ile en Mer and faithfully painted the rugged rock formations in his characteristically soft Impressionist brushstrokes. Visiting Castel Clara is like stepping into one of Monet’s paintings, simultaneously breathtaking and surreal. This grand hotel stands on the southern shores of the island, off the western coast of Brittany in France, which provide an arresting backdrop of windswept coastline and the aquamarine waters of the Bay of Goulphar. When I arrive at the front door of Castel Clara, I quickly realize that this place meets its promise for a total escape from quotidian life.

The hotel basks in a sun that curves across the horizon, giving us long warm days of sunshine. We take advantage of it, waking up early to an indulgent breakfast on the deck overlooking the sea, filled with a variety of healthy options to start the day. We spend the morning cycling along the edge of the blue-green sea, watching the light cant at different angles as the sun arcs overhead. We visit the tiny harbour of Le Palais to sip a crisp white wine, indulge in some mussels fresh from the sea, and watch the yachts casting off their lines. Late afternoon draws us to La Pointe des Poulins, where we see the canvases of Monet’s work spring to life, recalling Rodin’s words -“It’s a Monet”- which he uttered when he stood in this same spot. As we watch the sun slip below the horizon in a blaze of pink, coral and gold, it is easy to how an artist might get his inspiration from this pastel palette of colours bouncing off the rustic landscape.

Despite its small footprint, the island is a wealth of local culture. From citadels and lighthouses, to golf, kayaking and surfing, guests are never at a loss for things to see and do. The hotel draws us back from our daily perambulations for a light meal at Café Clara. We break up the afternoon with a swim in the seawater pool and a trip to Spa Clara, which features a thalassotherapy centre where we benefit from the healing properties of the sea in our spa sessions. From hydrotherapy treatments and seaweed wraps to the simple pleasure of a relaxing massage, the hotel endeavours to treat its guests to the simple pleasures of the local environment, which you never leave far behind.

Hints of the ocean are sprinkled throughout the property, and between the whitewashed wood and wooden sailboats, we feel cozied up in someone’s personal seaside retreat. The decor is anything but overdone, serving up equal parts simplicity and comfort. The nautical touches make their way into the dining space with copper light fixtures, and onto the daily menus. Head chef Christophe Hardouin of the Bleu Manière Verte restaurant also draws inspiration from the ocean to provide a menu richly decorated with spoils from the sea and seasonal local organic produce. The buffet is an opportunity to try the abundance of specialties such as lobster, oysters, scallops and lamb.

Evenings, studded with stars and caressed by sea breezes, are made sweeter with a cocktail in hand, made by our reliable barman Cyril. We fall easily into the rhythm of life at the Castel Clara, with a background soundtrack of jazz, blues and bossa nova. These are the moments that you deliberately place into your scrapbook of memories, that you keep turning back to when paradise feels too far away.