Kasbah Agounsane

Knowing that the Kasbah Agounsane is a small boutique hotel with just ten rooms, we could be forgiven for expecting to find a rather small and sedate establishment when we arrived in this empty expanse of exotic countryside. Imagine our surprise, therefore, when we pulled up outside the magnificent Kasbah and realised that it was nothing of the sort! As soon as I laid eyes on the golden and ochre-coloured structure glowing in the afternoon light - a higgledy-piggledy pile of towers, staircases, right angles and roofs at all kinds of different levels - I was immediately struck by the size of it. No, it may not quite be on the scale of the gargantuan Atlas Mountains in the background, or even the Koutoubia Mosque which dominates the skyline and pierces the heavens in nearby Marrakech, but it was still an exciting prospect to think that all this space was shared by just ten rooms.

We were soon setting down our suitcases in our Suite, which was – predictably – enormous. Rich colours, luxurious fabrics, soft lighting and traditional Moroccan décor created a kind of sensual harem vibe, while details such as air conditioning, a flat-screen TV, Wi-Fi, a minibar and a superbly appointed bathroom kept us in the 21st century. If we thought the room was spacious, the views from our private balcony over the swimming pool and countryside beyond seemed to go on forever – almost completely empty space as far as we could see. There is an ancient Berber saying which goes something along the lines of “a well-educated man always has a kind word to say about the place where he spends the night”; I could have filled a book with the kind words I had to say about this particular suite.

Our journey out into the countryside and the panoramas from the balcony had given us a taste of the peace and seclusion of the setting, so we headed outside to lay by the pool, luxuriate in the silence of nature and bask in the warm glow of the sun. Having taken an early morning flight, we had squeezed in a few hours in Marrakech before leaving the city behind, so this was a most welcome change. Much as I love the legendary city, I have to admit it is a full-on experience. The sounds of shouting souk traders and the clip-clop rattling of donkey carts were still ringing in my ears, and when I closed my eyes I could still see the intense rainbow of colours at the silk and spice markets, as well as the crowds swarming around the streets of the medina. Fascinating and enthralling it may be, but relaxing out here, snoozing beside the scenic swimming pool or pampering ourselves with a blissful spa treatment, is certainly the best way to see the city.

The Kasbah Agounsane afforded us the luxury of choice, therefore: we could opt for the draining but rewarding Marrakech experience, or choose to kick back in the countryside, which did not even necessarily mean staying at the hotel… The staff helped us organise guided trekking, cycling and horse riding to stay active while we explored the area, while we also took ourselves off to discover the historic villages in the region. We noticed a whole range of child-friendly activities for if we return with the kids, but we went for the more extravagant, grownup options, including an exhilarating ride in a Cessna C152 plane to gain a new, aerial perspective on the beautiful area. All around us we saw sun-scorched, desert-like landscapes infused with a splash of greenery, which could hardly have contrasted more with the snowy upper reaches of the Atlas Mountains, just 30 km away.

Whether it had been filled with rural relaxation or urban energy, when the gorgeous glow of the sunset signalled the end of each day, we returned home to ‘Rock the Kasbah’ in the evening. Night time entertainment would begin with an aperitif on the terrace overlooking the pool, before we either stayed put or moved into the dining room - where art-deco meets Berber tradition - for our meal. The cuisine is outstanding and there is a new menu every evening, with each dish like a thrilling magic carpet ride through the authentic flavours of Morocco. These epicurean evenings merged seamlessly with our sumptuously comfortable nights and unforgettable days, and before we knew it our stay had whizzed by in a blur of culture, scenery, gastronomy and luxury. Let’s hope the time before our next visit flies by just as quickly…