Finikas Luxury Hotel ★★★★

There's no disagreement as we arrive, the hotel is more beautiful in the flesh than on the screen! Sitting just a few feet from the sunny Alyko beach, the Finikas Hotel has a commanding view of Agali Bay on the southwest coast of Naxos. This is a real slice of paradise, tucked into a lush and expansive garden, lined with short, fat palms and gnarled olive trees. From the outside, the architecture is inspired by the simple, white style that is traditional in these parts, with the additional touch of mint-green balconies that help the building melt into its surroundings, blending in with the white of the sand dunes and the green of the cedar forest nearby. Far away from the trodden paths of mainstream tourism, we feel privileged to be among a lucky few to enjoy this place. The welcome is professional yet personal. Dimitrios, the charming hotel manager, is full of helpful recommendations on the best beaches for me and the most interesting sites for his nibs.

Dropping our bags, I can wait no longer. I give my love a peck on the cheek and hurry to change into something more summery. Back outside, I plunge into the saltwater pool, a gorgeous space framed with an immaculate lawn and a low stone wall, set with loungers and parasols. As I stroke through the water for a few leisurely lengths, I remember reading somewhere that 'Finikas' means 'palm trees' and the hotel is aptly named; the feathery fronds of the low palm trees are everywhere, completing the picture-postcard scene. Finishing my swim, I waste no time in exploring the hotel spa with its Jacuzzi, hammam and massages... utter indulgence!

And where was my other half during all this time? If his conversation with Dimitrios was anything to go by, he was exploring the Chora, the main harbour town on Naxos. He'd probably start with a visit to the Venetian fortress, dating back to 1207; one of its towers still stands today for views out over the sea. Then perhaps he'd move onto the Tragaia plateau, where the first of the island's many Byzantine churches stands. Knowing him, he'd round off his wanderings with a visit to the famous Portara of Naxos, a monumental stone doorway, now just a freestanding frame. It is a final remaining relic of the ever-unfinished temple to Apollo that now delineates nothing more than the blue Aegean Sea. All of which means he should be returning any moment now...

United once more, both happy and relaxed from a day of indulging in our solitary passions, we return to our room to enjoy a moment à deux in the peaceful surroundings of our seaview balcony. The room is suited to both of our tastes, refined and luxurious and in keeping with the island's Cycladic aesthetic. It is fitted out with all the little comforts you'd expect of a four-star hotel: an ensuite bathroom with luxury Korres toiletries, a fridge, flat screen TV and free Internet connection. Although, as it happens, we need neither the television or the internet to entertain us; after a day apart, there's nothing more I wish for than to curl up on the bed and listen to my love's tales of his adventures on the island.

The Finikas Luxury Hotel is a place to enjoy alone or together, a pocket of luxury and beauty that tailors its service to meet your every desire...