Le Pont de l'Ouysse ★★★★

At the bottom of a dizzying cliff face – topped with a fairy-tale castle – sits an old farmhouse. The River L’Ouysse rolls languidly by, skirting the land where hundreds of young truffle oaks have been planted for future generations. Le Pont de L’Ouysse has been passed from generation to generation, and what started as a simple farm is now a refined and elegant hotel with 12 bedrooms and two apartments. The welcome and the service we received is everything you would expect from a family who have invested their heart and soul into the place.

After enjoying a gourmet breakfast of viennoiserie, fresh fruit, delicious bread, charcuterie and coffee in our room, we set off eagerly to explore the area. The land around Lacave has been inhabited since Palaeolithic times and is steeped in history. Take a guided tour of the caves deep in the hillside to see dramatic stalagmites and stalactites, a cavernous room more than 60 m high, and even an underground lake. Visit Rocamadour, a stunning village built into the gorge of a tributary of the Dordogne. It has attracted pilgrims from all walks of life for centuries as it supposedly once gave sanctuary to the Virgin Mary. See the surprising sight of 130 Barbary apes in 50 acres of wild countryside in La Forêt des Singes. Take a romantic stroll around Les Jardins du Manoir d’Eyrignac, an 18th century French-style formal garden with various sections including some stunning geometric topiary, a Chinese pagoda garden, and a kitchen garden. Their restaurant is a lovely setting for lunch or a snack.

The magical thing about returning to Le Pont de L’Ouysse after a day of sight-seeing is that it’s brimming with the romance of the area, just as much as the caves or the castles. There’s a slight country feel to the bedrooms that’s romantic rather than quaint. The soft neutral colours and occasional splashes of warmth complement the rich hardwood floors. The rooms are flooded with light and have flat screen TVs with satellite channels, minibar, safe, telephone, Wi-Fi, hairdryer, robe and slippers. Most have gorgeous views of the river and countryside. Our bed was wonderfully comfortable with luxurious linen, the perfect recipe for a great night’s sleep.

The hotel has a quiet little bar where you can enjoy a chilled glass of champagne or the local Montbazillac, looking out onto the rock face behind the outdoor pool which is lit up at night and looks magical. The South West of the country is known for a cuisine rich in flavours and the award-winning Pont de L’Ouysse restaurant does not disappoint. Fourth and fifth generations Daniel and Stephane Chambon concoct beautiful creations with truffles, foie gras and cepes... dishes like artichoke risotto, blue lobster with country mushrooms and squid ink jus, and mandarin mousse with caramelised oranges and a spiced biscuit. In the summer the outdoor dining area is like something from a fairy tale with tables set under a thick canopy of trees hung with lights. In winter the indoor dining room is simple and elegant yet cosy. What better way to round off the evening than with a glass or two of Armagnac, the famous Midi-Pyrénées liqueur?