Hotel Hermitage Spa & Beauty ★★★★★

Thanks to its unique, gravity-defying, awe-inspiring form, the Matterhorn certainly captures the imagination. Depending on the light or the angle, you might see it and think of the Egyptian pyramids, a massive witch’s hat, an ancient flint arrowhead, or a gargantuan, gnarled and twisted claw scratching at the heavens… Or simply a rather impressive mountain. These alternative interpretations are part of what has attracted poets, painters and mountaineers to this part of the Italian-Swiss border for so many years. Poets such as John Ruskin, who described it as ‘the most noble cliff in Europe’, and mountaineers such as Edward Whymper (the first to conquer the summit), who rather more morbidly labelled it a place where ‘a momentary negligence may destroy the happiness of a lifetime’. Whether it inspires reverence or fear, you could not argue that this is about as dramatic and imposing a setting as nature could muster, and it is just a couple of miles below the sun-drenched southern side that the Hermitage Hotel welcomes northern Italy’s most savvy skiers.

This is not the most hospitable part of the world. The Matterhorn was one of the last alpine peaks to be ascended because of the sheer terror it instilled in most mountaineers. Indeed, not even snow can cling onto its steep rocky faces, with regular avalanches depositing snow falls onto glaciers at the base. Though Breuil-Cervinia is slightly removed from the famous mountain, the surrounding peaks are not much better, while the extreme altitude makes for plummeting temperatures and consistent snowfall. But who cares about all this, because as soon as you cross the threshold of the Hermitage Hotel you instantly feel wrapped up in a cosy, snug atmosphere, as hospitable as it gets. You see rustic wood-panelled floors and walls, candles flickering in the corners and old-fashioned fireplaces, and you immediately feel cocooned in the hotel’s warm embrace. The gentle tinkling of a grand piano may be filling the lobby, while a comfy armchair beside the fire beckons you over for a glass of red wine in the bar.

Of course, if you still feel in need of being warmed and pampered, the hotel will stop at nothing to make you as comfortable as possible. Why not head to the spa, where you can work up a sweat in the gym or in the sauna, take a dip in the heated pool, and feel any chills caressed out of you by the hands of the expert masseurs. In the evening, what could be more comforting than a candlelit dinner in an atmospheric dining room, enjoying homely Italian flavours and fresh local ingredients, all prepared with plenty of flair and panache. Washed down with a sumptuously smooth bottle of Italian wine, a meal at La Chandelle is an exquisitely epicurean experience.

So, two of the highlights of the Hermitage Hotel are undoubtedly the sublime setting and the warm, soothing atmosphere, both of which are brought to the fore in the stunning bedrooms. Each boasts a balcony with panoramic views, immersing you in the jaw-dropping beauty of the alpine landscape. Meanwhile, the rustic-yet-luxurious log-cabin vibe is maintained by old-fashioned wooden furnishings, quaint fabrics on the bedding and curtains, top of the range facilities and more space than you know what to do with. Likewise, the bathrooms are roomy and perfectly-equipped, including bespoke La Prairie toiletries, so you can pamper yourself when not at the La Prairie spa.

A few days before my own visit to the Hermitage Hotel, I had made the mistake of watching classic horror flick ‘The Shining’, a disconcerting and ill-advised viewing choice for anyone soon to embark on a snowy, mountain chalet retreat. Fortunately, I was not plagued by perturbing parallels between my own luxurious abode and the hotel which drives Jack Nicholson’s creepy Jack Torrance to madness. Far from it - rather than ghosts and eerie spirits, the only spirit which flows through the corridors of this charming sanctuary from the snow is one of friendly hospitality and laid back relaxation. In fact, it is tempting to simply while away the hours with a leisurely breakfast, a massage at the spa, a dip in the pool, a drink at the bar, and a sumptuous meal at La Chandelle, a routine which you could happily repeat for days on end.

That is, were it not for the even more irresistible options just outside the front door. In winter, the skiing here is some of Europe’s finest, and the hotel provides a shuttle service taking you just up the road to the slopes. Snow sports continue in the summer, while a slight thaw also reveals a stunning 18-hole golf course, one of the highest on the continent. Meanwhile, pastures come to life with rhododendrons and edelweiss, making for spectacular walking around the local lakes, perfect for working up an appetite for dinner back at the Hermitage Hotel. Who said the Alps were all about skiing?