Pousada de Viana do Castelo ★★★★

“Havemos de ir a Viana”, in other words “We must go to Viana,” sang Amalia Rodrigues in one of Portugal’s famous Fado songs. The authentic backdrop of the city, with its jutting turrets and ornate architecture, inspired the emotions and stories of the traditional music as I arrived at my hotel. Tucked in at the top of a hill, overlooking the sea, the glory of Viana, and the mouth of the Lima River, sits the Pousada de Viana do Castelo ****.

The views alone were spectacular, but the setting itself was a beautiful pocket of luxury. Set in an ornate building dating back to 1918, the Pousada retains the style of the Belle Époque with its high walls, majestic granite, and wide archways. It is a real twentieth century palace with soaring ceilings, five metres high in the reception area, and a strong, classic personality. I particularly loved the old-world charm that was peppered with modern comforts, like the welcoming hotel staff who embodied attentive Portuguese hospitality, and the new-age technologies that reminded me that I was in the twenty-first century.

When I arrived, I immediately went for a stroll around the quaint streets of Viana. On my return to the Pousada, I grabbed a table in the unique restaurant, formed into a half-moon shape, in a turret. From my table I could see right out across the scenery beyond and was surrounded by the delicious aromas of fresh seafood – like I was eating by the ocean itself. I tucked into the local cuisine, sipping on fine Portuguese wine, and savoured the flavours of the region. After dinner I retired to the silky, comfortable lounge bar where I relaxed with a classic cocktail and enjoyed the melodies of traditional Fado music.