Set in the beautiful, historical province of Languedoc in the south of France, is the town of Pézenas. A real gem, its historic buildings and streets are full of old-fashioned charm. It was once the home of Molière, ‘the French Shakespeare’, who once declared “I prefer a pleasant vice to an annoying virtue”. I have a feeling he would like it at La Distillerie de Pézenas, a lovely boutique hotel in a wonderfully restored old distillery. ‘Pleasant vices’ are not hard to come by here, whether that means overindulging on the local cuisine and fine wine at the restaurant, treating yourself at the spa, lounging beside the pool, or lazing in your luxurious suite.
Pézenas may not be the most well-known or well-trodden town in the south of France, but it is certainly something of a hidden gem. It captures the soul of the region; small town life plays out among medieval cobbled alleyways and elegant renaissance mansions built from honey coloured stone. Whether to stroll through history admiring a mishmash of architectural styles, follow in the footsteps of the great French writer Molière, or simply sample some of the sumptuous local cuisine and wine, this sleepy little town is not to be missed.
The Distillerie de Pézenas is set on the edge of the historic quarter, with the charms of the ancient town centre to one side, and a pretty patchwork of fields and vineyards stretching out in the opposite direction. There is something special about staying in a building with a fascinating past, and the character of this old distillery is palpable as soon as you set foot inside. It has been magnificently and lovingly renovated with the utmost respect for the traditional architecture, while being suitably luxurious for a modern boutique hotel.
The spacious and brilliantly designed suites, with décor based on one of four themes, each recall a different stage in the town and the building’s rich history. The ‘antique’ rooms capture the ancient soul of the town, the ‘distillery’ rooms offer an industrial-chic aesthetic with raw wood and metal, the ‘winemaker’ rooms have headboards made with wood recovered from the old wine cellars, and finally the ‘mansion’ rooms will take you back to the 18th-century with refined wooden furnishings, fine upholstery and tapestries.
The Distillerie de Pézenas continues to spoil guests with its communal facilities, including an indoor and outdoor pool, and the southern heat provides plenty of opportunity to bask in the sun. Meanwhile, the Garrigae Spa invites you to slow down and unwind in a soothing and refreshing atmosphere. The spa treatments use products made from local organic produce such as olives, grape seed, wild herbs, almonds and apricots, making for an absolutely divine and revitalising experience.
Head on to the restaurant to savour the authentic flavours of the Mediterranean. Here it’s best to ignore the advice of Molière, who once claimed that “one should eat to live, not live to eat.” With a menu of fresh daily specials and irresistible tapas, it is worth making dinner the focal point of the day. The wine list also offers a great selection, all of which slip down very nicely as you sit on the terrace and watch the sunlight gradually fade. Perhaps Molière would change his mind if he could only stay here one night…