Abba Granada ★★★★

I will leave the ABBA song titles there, because in truth there is very little in common between the band and the Abba Granada. This is a hotel all about modern, classy sophistication, more ‘swanky jazz club’ than ‘Eurovision Song Contest’. Its character is apparent even from the outside, a tall, sleek glass structure which dazzles in the Andalusian sun and typically reflects back nothing but immaculately blue sky. It is amazing to think that such a striking modern structure exists in tandem with such an old city, set just outside the famous historic centre. Yet it is this contrast which makes the Abba Granada so great – you need no extra helping of history when you are staying in a city with such a fascinating past spanning so many centuries, so why not treat yourself to some 21st century luxury and glamour?

That is exactly what I got, from the moment I walked through the door. The lobby has something of a space-age feel to it, with thick silver columns and polished white surfaces. Overhead, the ceiling twinkles like a starry sky out of the window of a spaceship, and you can instantly sense the futuristic-chic vibe. I had arrived early in an uncharacteristic display of punctuality; no matter, I was pointed around the corner to the bar, where I was happy to pass the half hour it took to get my room ready, secretly delighted for an excuse to sip on a cold beer and get in the holiday spirit straight away. By night, cool blue floor lighting makes the area immediately around the bar shimmer like a pool of water. This was the middle of the day, however, so I made my way over towards the window, watching the world go by from my stylish, pomegranate-red armchair (probably not a coincidence – Granada is actually Spanish for pomegranate).

Eventually, I managed to tear myself away and head upstairs through the dimly lit, atmospheric corridors to my room. Exceptionally spacious and tastefully designed, my room was also air-conditioned, sound proofed and fitted out with all the amenities I could wish for – the perfect cosy cocoon in which to relax during a hectic weekend. There was not time for this just yet though, the stunning centre of Granada sat tantalisingly just beyond the hotel’s doors. Just a fifteen minute walk later, I was right in the heart of the Albayzín, the tightly-packed sprawl of narrow cobblestone streets where Medieval Moorish history hangs heavy in the air, brightly coloured bougainvillea spills over whitewashed walls, and a labyrinthine layout makes for one of the world’s prettiest places to get lost.

Mexican poet Francisco de Icaza wrote his name in Granada folklore forever when he was quoted as saying “there is nothing in this life like the grief of being blind in Granada”, a quote which even merits its own plaque in the grounds of the Alhambra. It is easy to see where he is coming from: the beauty of the ancient winding streets, ornate churches, hilltop viewpoints, shady gardens, golden sunlight and of course, the mighty Alhambra palace-fortress is indisputable. The city is, however, a treat for every one of the senses. Feeling the warm kiss of the southern Spanish sun, even in winter when you can see snow on the surrounding Sierra Nevada mountains; drinking in the smells emanating from the innumerable tapas bars, inviting you in to taste the authentic flavours of Andalucia; listening to the sounds of Flamenco music or a buzz of chatter filling a square as the sun goes down… Each day you spend in the city known as ‘the Moorish jewel’ is a delight, albeit rather exhausting.

Fortunately, the Abba Granada provides the perfect remedy to a draining day spent exploring the city. A dip in the outdoor pool, a soothing steam bath and a cocktail on the terrace had me feeling back to my best in no time; on my second day, I had a change of tack, using up my remaining energy in the fantastic gym before indulging in the age-old Spanish tradition of a siesta. Either way, I was perfectly reenergised for the evening’s entertainment…

While I must say that dinner at the hotel is an experience not to be missed, to not at least head out into the city on at least one evening is to miss out on another hallowed local tradition. Granada is one of few Spanish cities where bars continue to offer free tapas with drinks; think elaborate local cuisine rather than crisps and olives. I love nothing better than finding a seat among locals in an authentic tapas joint, ordering a glass of sangria and taking whatever delicious morsels make their way over to me. Spending a whole evening enjoying this all-too-addictive experience had me feeling full and slightly giddy in due course, but luckily I had a delightfully comfortable sanctuary to retreat to at the end of the night, and not too far to stumble back!