Relais Il Castello

Gathered into the pleated skirts of the medieval village of Monte Castello di Vibius, the Relais Il Castello is an almost mystical secret hideaway. The ancient walled town sits top a hill with commanding views of the Tiber Valley (nearly 2,000 feet above sea level no less!). Not far from Todi, Monte Castello di Vibius sits in the heart of Umbria, a green garden in the centre of Italy. Green is indeed the watchword around these parts, with the presence of the dusky green of the olive groves, the deep green of the endless pine forests and the sweet green of row upon row of regimented grape vines. There’s nothing else except a pretty inn or a terracotta village here and there... we're a long way from the "fuss about nothing" style of neighbouring Tuscany.

Stepping through the hotel doors is like stepping back in time. The careful attention paid to every traditional detail and the courteous renovation has retained - even enhanced - its original magic. Quaintly charming from the very first glance, the Relais nonetheless makes considerable concessions to contemporary comfort. A sheltered pool has fantastic views where I bathe while soaking up the glory of the surrounding countryside, at one with the history all around. The spa, too, is a welcome modern addition. Here, I abandon my troubles at the door and give in to soothing vibes of the emotional shower and sauna. Leafing through the extensive menu of massages and beauty treatments, the 'olive oil ritual' catches my eye. A soothing body scrub and thorough massage make the most of the moisturising properties of the region's natural liquid gold before a tasting of olive oil-dipped bruschetta to take the edge off my growing appetite.

Well and truly initiated into the ways of the dolce vita, I throw caution to the wind and enjoy every element of dinner in the hotel restaurant. In the antique surroundings, I make sure to taste each local speciality from the prized black Norcia truffles to the wild boar sausage alongside the delicious tagliatelle and white truffles from Orvieto… a real festival of flavours to the accompaniment of local red wines.

In the morning I'll choose between Deruta, Spoleto, Bevagna, Monteflaco and Perugia, the capital of Umbria with a charm that's all its own. I'll spare you the list of places I saw, it wouldn't fit here anyway. Suffice to say that the surrounding countryside overflows with enough architectural treasures, cultural gems and natural wonders to keep even the most energetic visitor busy for quite some time. And if you want my opinion, the Relais Il Castello is the perfect place to start...