Hotel Santemar ★★★★

Northern Spain is a quiet – sometimes silent – contender for beachgoers. Most sun seekers flock to the south of the country, in search of hotter climates and the balmy Mediterranean Sea. But I ventured north, to the region of Cantabria, where I found a pocket of peace and quiet in Santander. It’s certainly not a secret. Well, not amongst the locals who claim the area as their own holiday hotspot, but there is still an untouched appeal in Northern Spain, where you can still tuck into delicious food in quaint towns as a local.

Bordered by the elegant beach of El Sardinero, Santander is a modern example of quintessential Spanish charm. It’s certainly not the prettiest town on the map (it was effectively burnt to ashes in 1941 and has been in a constant flux of renovation and redevelopment since then) but it is bursting with character thanks to its selection of cultural attractions, its Art Nouveau architecture, and in its fine array of delectable tapas dishes. If you didn’t already know, the north of Spain is renowned for its cuisine which makes the most of fresh ingredients from the sea and surrounding greenery, and this was one of the reasons I was drawn to the tasty town of Santander.

Well, this, and the allure of the Hotel Santemar. I’d heard tales of magnificent marble floors, gilded picture frames, and lavish, luxurious comforts. It’s difficult not to hear whispers on the grapevine about one of the largest hotels in northern Spain, but it also meant it had a lot to live up to. As soon as I walked into the spacious reception, though, I knew I would not be disappointed. It might have been the friendly, welcoming staff that sealed the deal for me, or the stylishly mismatched classic furniture which blended well with the otherwise modern décor; studded leather sofas surround flat screen TVs, high-backed embellished dining chairs in white-washed rooms, and old paintings are illuminated by contemporary spotlights. Or it might have been my room, which was simple but comfortable with nuances of new (the TV and WiFi) elegantly matched with traditional features, like dark-wood furniture and patterned sofas.  

But it was the food I was most excited about. Would the Santemar live up to my foodie expectations of Northern Spain? Yes, it would. They got it spot on, serving up a wide variety of dishes using fresh regional ingredients. Local flavours mixed with international aromas and even classic dishes were dressed up with a twist or two. Breakfast – my favourite meal of the day – was a delight, too, involving hunks of homemade breads, cold meats, cheeses, eggs, and seasonal fruits. On a couple of occasions I found myself in the café (open from 8am until midnight) enjoying a toasted sandwich and café con leche.

If there was anything that was as good as the food, it was the location of the Santemar. Perched on the glorious Santander Bay, fringed by the sprawling sands of El Sardinero beach (a must-visit for sun worshippers), and just 2km from the Palace of Magdalena, it not only offers beautiful surroundings, but also caters to culture lovers too.

So Santander is not such a secret anymore, but I’m glad the word has got out. The epitome of Spanish character, it holds opportunities for every kind of traveller; for the foodie, there is the dedication to delicious Cantabrian gastronomy (some of the best in the country); for the culture aficionado, there’s a wide selection of museums, including ones focusing on the fine arts, archaeology, and naval endeavours; and for sun-seeking beachgoers, there is the lively, beautiful El Sardinero beach. Whether it is food, art, or relaxing sun-filled days you’re after, make sure you check into the Santemar for the icing on the cake.