Hotel Villa Ottone ★★★★★

There is more than one reason for the Tuscan island of Elba’s fame. Not least, as being the place of Napoleon’s exile. Here, he dreamt up his revenge in residences that can still be visited today. But the Napoleonic episode occupies only a small chapter in Elba’s history book. For thousands of years the most important Mediterranean civilisations lived amongst its undulating landscapes, leaving traces of their presence which can be seen today in the many museums and archaeological sites that pepper the island. Yes, Elba is known for its rich heritage, but it also boats incredible natural beauty: clear waters lap at golden beaches; granite massifs rub shoulders with great green gulfs; gallery forests offer a shady respite from the Italian sun; and dolphins and whales make the ocean the perfect place for dive enthusiasts.

Similarly, there is more than one reason for the Villa Ottone’s fame. Its historic past weaves through narratives of Counts and royalty of the lands, but its stunning setting is perhaps what makes it so sought-after in the present day. Nestled in the well-manicured arms of a botanical garden at the foot of the Voterraio Castle, it proffers tranquillity overlooking the bay of Portoferraio. Then there is its eye-catching white façade and the 19th-century frescoes that stucco the interior. It brings together grandiose design and age-old histories to make a five-star boutique hotel – and there was certainly more than one reason for me to check in.

Inside, the rooms are bright and airy, soaked with the Tuscan sun. Meanwhile, embroidered carpets run beneath plush armchairs and glitzy chandeliers. My room is equally as welcoming, with a neutral palette of creams, muted reds, and golds, thick curtains, and a private balcony that juts out across the colourful gardens below. Elsewhere, tall pillars connect the outside world to the inside, marble floors sprawl out at the height of luxury, and decorated ceilings watch over intricate frescoes and antique furniture. In the living room, a large marble fireplace sets the scene from centuries ago, when Counts convened in this magnificent building.

The private beach is a little slice of heaven, too, with its own bar, rows of secluded chairs, and an intimate terrace with stunning sea views. The Villa Ottone bathes in relaxation, made evident in its seemingly never-ending supply of facilities, from the two pools overlooking the ocean and the three restaurants bursting at the seams with delicious Italian and international cuisine, to the bars, tennis courts, expansive wellness centre complete with a Hammam and Thai massages, and, of course, the Mediterranean gardens that envelope the hotel in their colourful, refreshing charm. When I’m not tucking into grilled fish by the pool, enjoying cocktails in the piano bar, or treating myself to a massage, I’m out exploring the island’s natural landscape and fascinating histories.

And then, as darkness falls, I retreat to my room at the Villa Ottone – once inhabited by the wealthy elite of Italy – and wake once more under the Tuscan sun.